ITALY - Best of Europe 2014 - page 1119

Pizzeria Vesuvio serves some of the best and most popular pizza in town. A neighbor-
hood favorite, it has classy indoor seating and pleasant tables outside (long hours, closed
Tue, on Rio Terà Farsetti up from San Marcuola vaporetto stop, tel. [phone]).
Enoteca Cicchetteria Do Colonne is a local dive with a loyal following and a good
spread of cicchetti and sandwiches. It's handy for a drink and a snack. While the food is me-
diocre, the scene (both at the bar and at the tables outside) feels real and is fun (daily, up
from San Marcuola vaporetto stop just before Strada Nova on Rio Terà del Cristo, a block
from Pizzeria Vesuvio—listed above, see map on here , tel. [phone]).
East of the Bridge
(See “Hotels & Restaurants near the Rialto Bridge” map, here . )
Osteria di Santa Marina, serving pricey, near-gourmet cuisine in a dressy dining room,
is highly regarded by Venetians. The presentation is impressive, but you feel there's more
pretense than love of food. Cheap-eating tricks are frowned on in this elegant, borderline
stuffy restaurant (€15 pastas, €25 secondi , €3 cover, €75-80 fixed-price meals, Mon-Sat
12:30-14:30&19:30-22:00,closedSun,reservefordinner,eatindoorsoroutdoorsonpleas-
ant Campo Marina at #5911, between Rialto Bridge and Campo Santa Maria Formosa, tel.
041-528-5239).
Rosticceria San Bartolomeo is a cheap—if confusing—self-service diner. This throw-
back budget eatery has a surly staff: Don't take it personally. Take out, grab one of the few
tiny tables, or munch at the bar—I'd skip their upper-floor restaurant option (€6-7 pastas,
great fried mozzarella al prosciutto for €1.50, fruit salad, €1 glasses of wine, prices listed on
wall behind counter, no cover and no service charge, daily 9:00-21:30, tel. [phone]).
Tofindit,imaginethestatueonCampoSanBartolomeowalkingbackward20yards,turning
left, and going under a passageway—now, follow him.
Osteria al Portego is a friendly neighborhood eatery. Carlo serves good meals and ex-
cellent cicchetti —best enjoyed early, around 18:00 (from 19:00 to 21:00, their six tables
are reserved for those ordering from the menu; the cicchetti are picked over by 21:00).
The cicchetti here can make a great meal, but consider sitting down for a dinner from
their fine menu. Reserve ahead if you want a table (€13 pastas, €1 glasses of house wine,
daily 10:30-15:00 & 18:00-22:00, near Campo Marina at #6015 on Calle Malvasia, tel.
041-522-9038). From Rosticceria San Bartolomeo (listed above), continue over a bridge to
Campo San Lio, turn left, and follow Calle Carminati straight 50 yards over another bridge.
Near Campo Santa Maria Formosa: Osteria alle Testiere is my top dining splurge in
Venice. Hugely respected, Luca and his staff are dedicated to quality, serving up creative,
artfully presented market-fresh seafood (there's no meat on the menu), homemade pastas,
and fine wine in what the chef calls a “Venetian Nouvelle” style. With only 22 seats, it's
tight and homey, with the focus on food and service. They have daily specials, 10 wines by