Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Every night, enthusiastic musicians play the same songs, creating the same irresistible ma-
gic.Hangoutforfreebehindthetables(allowingyoutomoveeasilyontothenextorchestra
when the musicians take a break), or spring for a seat and enjoy a fun and gorgeously set
concert. If you sit a while, it can be €12-20 well spent (for a drink and the cover charge for
music). Dancing on the square is free—and encouraged.
Several venerable cafés and bars on the square serve expensive drinks outside but cheap
drinksinsideatthebar.Thesceneinabarlike
GranCaffèLavena
(inspiteofitspolitically
incorrectchandelier)canbegreat.Thetouristy
BarAmericano
islivelyuntillate(underthe
Clock Tower). You'll hear people talking about the famous
Harry's American Bar,
which
sells overpriced food and American cocktails to dressy tourists near the San Marco-Val-
laresso vaporetto stop. But it's a rip-off...and the last place Hemingway would drink today.
It's far cheaper to get a drink at any of the bars just off St. Mark's Square; you can even get
prosecco to go in a plastic cup.
Wherever youendup,streetlamp halos, live music, floodlit history,andaceiling ofstars
make St. Mark's magic at midnight. You're not a tourist, you're a living part of a soft Vene-
tian night...an alley cat with money. In the misty light, the moon has a golden hue. Shine
with the old lanterns on the gondola piers, where the sloppy lagoon splashes at the Doge's
Palace...reminiscing.
For hassle-free efficiency and the sheer magic of being close to the action, I favor hotels
that are handy to sightseeing activities. I've listed rooms in four neighborhoods: St. Mark's
bustle, the Rialto action, the quiet Dorsoduro area behind the Accademia art museum, and
near the train station (handy for train travelers, but far from the action). I also mention sev-
eral apartment rentals, big fancy hotels, cheap dorms, and places on the mainland. For ad-
ditional listings of B&Bs and apartments, try
Cross-Pollinate,
a reputable online booking
agency (
www.cross-pollinate.com
)
.
Book your accommodations well in advance if you'll be traveling during busy times.
Contactthehoteldirectly,notthroughanyroom-findingservice(theycan'tgiveopinionson
quality).
Note that hotel websites are particularly valuable for Venice, because they often include
detailed directions that can help you get to your rooms with a minimum of wrong turns in
this navigationally challenging city.
Over the past decade, Venice has seen the opening of several big new hotels, countless
little boutique hotels, and the conversion of many private homes to short-term rental apart-
ments, nearly doublingVenice'shotel capacity.Nowthecity isoverbuilt forhotels. Demand
