Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Center Wall:
The women encounter many obstacles in their pursuit of happiness—the
three dangerous Gorgons (naked ladies with snake hair), the gorilla-faced monster of fear,
and the three seductive women of temptation. These obstacles can leave us bent over with
grief (like the woman on the right) while our hopes pass by overhead.
Right Wall:
But we can still find happiness through art, thanks to Lady Poetry (with the
lyre) and the great hero of the arts: Beethoven. In the original 1902 exhibition, a statue of
Beethoven appeared at this crucial turning point in the narrative, where the blank space is
today.
Beethoven's presence inspires the yearning souls to carry on, and they finally reach true
happiness. At the climax of the frieze, a naked couple embraces in ecstasy as a heavenly
choir sings the “Ode to Joy” from the Ninth Symphony: “Joy, you beautiful spark of the
gods...under thy gentle wings, all men shall become brothers.”
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Naschmarkt
In 1898, the city decided to cover up its Vienna River. The long, wide square they created
was filled with a lively produce market that still bustles most days (closed Sun). It's long
been known as
the
place to get exotic faraway foods. In fact, locals say, “From here start the
Balkans.”
Hours and Location:
Mon-Fri 6:00-18:30, Sat 6:00-17:00, closed Sun, closes earlier in
winter; between Linke Wienzeile and Rechte Wienzeile, U-1, U-2, or U-4: Karlsplatz.
Visiting the Naschmarkt:
From near the Opera, the Naschmarkt (roughly, “Munchies
Market”) stretches along Wienzeile street. This “Belly of Vienna” comes with two parallel
lanes—one lined with fun and reasonable eateries, and the other featuring the town's top-
end produce and gourmet goodies. This is where top chefs like to get their ingredients. At
the gourmet vinegar stall, you can sample the vinegar—like perfume—with a drop on your
wrist. Farther from the center, the Naschmarkt becomes likeably seedy and surrounded by
sausage stands, Turkish
Döner Kebab
stalls, cafés, and theaters. At the market's far end is a
line of buildings with fine Art Nouveau facades. Each Saturday, the Naschmarkt is infested
byahugefleamarketwhere,inoldendays,localswouldcometohireamonkeytopicklittle
crittersoutoftheirhair(fleamarketsetsupwestoftheKettenbrückengasseU-Bahnstation).
Picnickers can pick up their grub in the market and head over to Karlsplatz (described
earlier) or the Burggarten. In recent years, some stalls have been taken over by hip new eat-
eries and bars, bringing a youthful vibe and fun new tastes to the market scene.
While there are more stately and elegant streets in the central district, the best opportunity
to simply feel the pulse of workaday Viennese life is a little farther out, along Mariahilfer
Strasse. An easy plan is to ride the U-3 to the Zieglergasse stop, then stroll and browse your
