Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Concerts: The church occasionally hosts evening concerts and small theatrical perform-
ances (€8-20, buy tickets at church, for details see the church website on previous page).
Visiting the Frari Church: In Donatello's wood statue of St. John the Baptist (just
to the right of the high altar), the prophet of the desert—dressed in animal skins and nearly
starving from his diet of bugs 'n' honey—announces the coming of the Messiah. Donatello
was a Florentine working at the dawn of the Renaissance.
Bellini's Madonna and Child with Saints and Angels painting (in the sacristy farther
to the right) came later, done by a Venetian in a more Venetian style—soft focus without
Donatello's harsh realism. While Renaissance humanism demanded Madonnas and saints
that were accessible and human, Bellini places them in a physical setting so beautiful that it
creates its own mood of serene holiness. The genius of Bellini, perhaps the greatest Vene-
tian painter, is obvious in the pristine clarity, rich colors (notice Mary's clothing), believable
depth, and reassuring calm of this three-paneled altarpiece.
Finally, glowing red and gold like a stained-glass window over the high altar, Titian's
The Assumption of the Virgin sets the tone of exuberant beauty found in the otherwise
sparse church. Titian the Venetian—a student of Bellini—painted steadily for 60 years...
you'll see a lot of his art. As stunned apostles look up past the swirl of arms and legs, the
complex composition of this painting draws you right to the radiant face of the once-dying,
now-triumphant Mary as she joins God in heaven.
Feel comfortable to discreetly freeload off passing tours. For many, these three pieces of
art make a visit to the Accademia Gallery unnecessary (or they may whet your appetite for
more). Before leaving, check out the Neoclassical pyramid-shaped Canova monument and
(opposite that) the grandiose tomb of Titian. Compare the carved marble Assumption behind
Titian's tombstone portrait with the painted original above the high altar.
▲▲▲ Scuola San Rocco
Sometimes called “Tintoretto's Sistine Chapel,” this lavish meeting hall (next to the Frari
Church) has some 50 large, colorful Tintoretto paintings plastered to the walls and ceilings.
The best paintings are upstairs, especially the Crucifixion in the smaller room. View the
neck-breaking splendor with the mirrors available in the Grand Hall.
CostandHours: €8,audioguide-€1,daily9:30-17:30,lastentry30minutesbeforeclos-
ing, tel. 041-523-4864, www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it .
Church of San Polo
This nearby church, which pales in comparison to the two sights just listed, is only worth a
visit for art lovers. One of Venice's oldest churches (from the ninth century), San Polo fea-
tures works by Tintoretto, Veronese, and Tiepolo and son.
Cost and Hours: €3, Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, closed Sun.
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