Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Findthechandelierneartheentrancedoorway,andrunyoureyesuptothe Pentecost
mosaic in the dome above. In a golden heaven, the dove of the Holy Spirit shoots out a pin-
wheel of spiritual lasers, igniting tongues of fire on the heads of the 12 apostles below.
Shuffle under the central dome, and look up for the Ascension mosaic.
Christ—having lived his miraculous life and having been crucified for man's sins—ascends
into the starry sky on a rainbow.
Look around at the church's furniture: the rood screen, topped with 14 saints, sep-
arates the congregation from the high altar. The pulpit on the right was reserved for the
doge, who led prayers and made important announcements.
In the north transept, today's Venetians pray to a painted wooden icon of Mary and baby
Jesus known as Nicopeia, or “Our Lady of Victory.” This Madonna has helped Venice
persevere through plagues, wars, and crucial soccer games.
Inthesouthtransept(torightofmainaltar),findthedim DiscoveryofMark mosaic
high up on the west wall. This mosaic re-creates the happy scene in 1094 when Mark's mis-
placed relics were found within a hollow column.
Additional Sights: The Treasury (ask for the included and informative audioguide
when you buy your ticket) and Golden Altarpiece give you the easiest way outside of
IstanbulorRavennatoseethegloriesoftheByzantineEmpire.Venetiancrusaderslootedthe
Christian city of Constantinople and brought home piles of lavish loot (perhaps the lowest
point in Christian history until the advent of TV evangelism). Much of this plunder is stored
in the Treasury (Tesoro) of San Marco. As you view these treasures, remember that most
weremadeinabout A.D. 500,whileWesternEuropewasstuckintheDarkAges.Beneaththe
highaltarliesthebodyofSt.Mark(“Marce”)andtheGoldenAltarpiece(Palad'Oro),made
of 250 blue-backed enamels with religious scenes, all set in a gold frame and studded with
15 hefty rubies, 300 emeralds, 1,500 pearls, and assorted sapphires, amethysts, and topaz (c.
1100).
In the San Marco Museum (Museo di San Marco) upstairs you can see an up-close
mosaic exhibition, a fine view of the church interior, a view of the square from the balcony
with bronze horses, and (inside, in their own room) the original horses. Art historians don't
know how old the horses are—they could be from ancient Greece (fourth century B.C. ) or
from ancient Rome, during its Fall (fourth century A.D. ). Legend says these well-traveled
horses were taken to Rome by Nero. We know they were taken to Constantinople/Istanbul
by Constantine, to Venice by crusaders, to Paris by Napoleon, back “home” to Venice when
Napoleon fell, and finally indoors and out of the acidic air. The staircase up to the museum
is in the atrium, near the basilica's main entrance, marked by a sign that says Loggia dei
Cavalli, Museo.
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