ITALY - Best of Europe 2014 - page 1029

vita è bella” (€10 pastas, €15 secondi, dinner only, Mon-Sat 19:00-23:00, closed Sun, reser-
vations smart, air-con, dress respectfully—no shorts please, 3 blocks from Spanish Steps at
Via Vittoria 51, tel. [phone]).
Osteria Gusto is thriving with trendy locals. While pricey, it's untouristy, gives a
glimpseoftoday'sRomanscene,andisfineforaglassofgoodwineoveranartisanalcheese
plateoracompletedinner(€13pastas,€18 secondi ,daily12:30-15:30&19:00-24:00,opens
at 18:30 for drinks and appetizers only, reservations recommended after 20:00 and on week-
ends, on the corner of Via Soderini at Via della Frezza 16, tel. [phone]). Their more
expensive ristorante and more casual wine bar (which offers lighter bites) are directly adja-
cent.
L'EnotecAntica, an upbeat, atmospheric 200-plus-year-old enoteca, has around 60
Italian-only wines by the glass (€4-10, listed on a big blackboard) and a fresh €14 antipasti
plateofveggies, salumi, andcheese.Verycrowdedonsummerevenings,itcomeswithwon-
derful ambience both inside and out; its outside tables are set ona quiet cobbled street (daily
12:00-24:00, Via della Croce 76b, tel. [phone]).
PalatiumEnotecaRegionale isacrisp,modernrestaurantfundedbytheregionofLazio
(home to Rome) to show off its finest agricultural fare. Surrounded by locals, you'll enjoy
generous, shareable plates of cheeses and salumi, a limited menu of pasta and meat, and a
huge selection of local wine (€12-16 dishes, Mon-Sat 12:30-15:30 & 19:30-23:00, closed
Sun, 5 blocks in front of the Spanish Steps at Via Frattina 94, tel. [phone]).
In Ancient Rome: Near the Colosseum and Forum
You'll find good views but poor value at the restaurants directly behind the Colosseum.
To get your money's worth, eat at least a block away. Here are several handy eateries, all
shown on the map on here : one at the foot of Via Cavour, two at the top of Terme di Tito (a
long block uphill from the Colosseum, near St. Peter-in-Chains church—of Michelangelo's
Moses fame; for directions, see here ) , and two a couple of blocks to the east.
Enoteca Cavour 313 is a wine bar with a mission: to offer good wine and quality food
withanold-fashioned commitment tovalueandfriendlyservice. It'salsoaconvenient place
for a good lunch near the Forum and Colosseum. Angelo and his three partners enjoy creat-
ing a mellow ambience under lofts of wine bottles (limited menu of daily specials and fine
wines by the glass, daily 12:30-14:45 & 19:00-24:00, 100 yards off Via dei Fori Imperiali at
Via Cavour 313, tel. [phone]).
Hostaria da Nerone is a traditional place serving hearty classics, including tasty
homemade pasta dishes. Their antipasti plate—with a variety of veggies, fish, and meat—is
a good value for a quick lunch. While the antipasti menu indicates specifics, you can have
a plate of whatever's out—just direct the waiter to assemble the €9 antipasti plate of your
lunchtime dreams (€10 pastas, €12 secondi , Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, closed