ITALY - Best of Europe 2014 - page 1026

Near the Trevi Fountain
(See “Restaurants in the Pantheon Neighborhood” map, here . )
L'Antica Birreria Peroni is Rome's answer to a German beer hall. Serving hearty mugs of
the local Peroni beer and lots of just plain fun beer-hall food and Italian classics, the place is
ahitwithRomansforacheapnightout(Mon-Sat12:00-24:00,closedSun,midwaybetween
Trevi Fountain and Capitoline Hill, a block off Via del Corso at Via di San Marcello 19, tel.
06-679-5310).
Ristorante Pizzeria Sacro e Profano fills an old church with spicy southern Italian
(Calabrian) cuisine and satisfied tourists. Run with enthusiasm by Emiliano and friends,
this is just far enough away from the Trevi mobs. Their pizza oven is wood-fired, and
their hearty €15 antipasti plate is a filling montage of Calabrian taste treats (Mon-Sat
12:00-15:00 & 18:00-23:00, closed Sun, a block off Via del Tritone at Via dei Maroniti 29,
tel. [phone]).
Close to the Pantheon
(See “Restaurants in the Pantheon Neighborhood” map, here . )
Eating on the square facing the Pantheon is a temptation, and I'd consider it just to relax and
enjoy the Roman scene. But if you walk a block or two away, you'll get less view and better
value. Here are some suggestions.
RistorantedaFortunato isanItalianclassic,withfreshflowersonthetablesandwhite-
coated, black-tie career waiters politely serving good meat and fish to politicians, foreign
dignitaries, and tourists with good taste. Don't leave without perusing the photos of their
famous visitors—everyone from former Iraqi Foreign Minister Tariq Aziz to Bill Clinton
seems to have eaten here. All are pictured with the boss, Fortunato, who, since 1975, has
been a master of simple edible elegance. (His son Jason is now on the team.) The outdoor
seating is fine for watching the river of Roman street life flow by, but the real atmosphere
is inside. For a dressy night out, this is a reliable and surprisingly reasonable choice—but
be sure to reserve ahead (plan to spend €45 per person, daily 12:30-15:30 & 19:30-23:30, a
block in front of the Pantheon at Via del Pantheon 55, tel. [phone]).
RistoranteEnotecaCorsi isawineshopthatgrewintoathrivinglunch-onlyrestaurant.
The Paiella family serves straightforward, traditional cuisine at great prices to an appreciat-
ive crowd of office workers. Check the blackboard for daily specials (gnocchi on Thursday,
fish on Friday, and so on). Friendly Giuliana, Claudia, Sara, and Manuela welcome eaters to
step into their wine shop and pick out a bottle. For the cheap take-away price, plus €2-4 (de-
pending on the wine), they'll uncork it at your table. With €9 pastas, €13 main dishes, and
fine wine at a third of the price you'd pay in normal restaurants, this can be a good value.
Andguestswiththisbookfinishtheirmeal withafreeglassofhomemade limoncello (Mon-