ITALY - Best of Europe 2014 - page 1025

Near Piazza Navona
(See “Restaurants in the Pantheon Neighborhood” map, here . )
Piazza Navona is the quintessential setting for dining on a Roman square. Whether you eat
here or not, you'll want to stroll the piazza before or after your evening meal. This is where
many people fall in love with Rome. The tangled streets just to the west are lined with pop-
ular eateries of many stripes.
Ciccia Bomba is a traditional trattoria where Gianpaolo, Gianluca, and their crew serve
up tasty homemade pasta, wood-fired pizza, and other Roman specialties (consider their
daily-special sheet)—all at a good price. While you can sit at a table on ancient pave-
ment next to your own column, I like the ambience upstairs (€7 pastas, €9 secondi , Thu-
Tue 12:30-15:00 & 19:00-24:00, closed Wed, Via del Governo Vecchio 76, a block west of
Piazza Navona, just north from Piazza Pasquino, tel. [phone]).
Cul de Sac, a corridor-wide trattoria lined with wine bottles, is packed with an enthu-
siastic crowd enjoying a wide-ranging menu, from pasta to homemade pâté. They have fun
tasting-plates of salumi and cheese, more than a thousand different wines, and fine out-
door seating. It's small, and they don't take reservations—come early to avoid a wait (€7-15
plates, daily 12:00-16:00 & 18:00-24:00, a block off Piazza Navona on Piazza Pasquino, tel.
06-6880-1094).
RistorantePizzeria“daFrancesco,” bustlingandauthentic,hasa50-year-oldtradition,
a hardworking young waitstaff, great indoor seating, and classic outdoor seating on a
cluttered little square that makes you want to break out a sketchpad. Their blackboard ex-
plains the daily specials (€9 pizzas and pastas, €15 secondi, open daily 12:00-15:00 &
19:00-24:00 except closed Tue at lunch, 3 blocks west of Piazza Navona at Piazza del Fico
29, tel. [phone]).
Pizzeria da Baffetto, buried deep in the old quarter behind Piazza Navona, is a Roman
favorite, offering tasty pizza but rude service. Its tables are tightly arranged amid the mish-
mash of photos and sketches littering the walls. The pizza-assembly kitchen keeps things
energetic, and the pizza oven keeps the main room warm (you can opt for a table on the
cobbled street). Come early or late, or be prepared to wait (€7 pizzas, daily from 18:30, cash
only;order“P,”“M,”or“D”—small,medium,orlarge;westofPiazzaNavonaonthecorner
of Via Sora at Via del Governo Vecchio 114, tel. [phone]).
L'Insalata Ricca is a popular local chain that specializes in healthy, filling €8 salads
and less-healthy pastas and main courses (daily 12:00-15:45 & 18:45-24:00). They have a
handy branch on Piazza Pasquino (next to the recommended Cul de Sac, tel. [phone])
and a more spacious and enjoyable location a few blocks away, on a bigger square next
to busy Corso Vittorio Emanuele (near Campo de' Fiori at Largo dei Chiavari 85, tel.
06-6880-3656).