Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The pope is both the religious and secular leader of Vatican City. For centuries,
locals referred to him as “King Pope.” Italy and the Vatican didn't always have good
relations. Infact,afterunification (in1870),whenRome'smoderngridplanwasbuilt
around the miniscule Vatican, it seemed as if the new buildings were designed to be
justhighenoughsonoonecouldseethedomeofSt.Peter'sfromstreetlevel.Modern
Italywascreatedin1870,buttheHolySeedidn'trecognizeitasacountryuntil1929,
when the pope and Mussolini signed the Lateran Pact, giving sovereignty and a few
nearby churches to the Vatican.
Like every European country, Vatican City has its own versions of the euro coin
(with a portrait of Pope Benedict XVI and, before him, of Pope John Paul II). You're
unlikely to find one in your pocket, though, as they are snatched up by collectors be-
fore falling into circulation.
Post Offices:
The Vatican postal service is famous for its stamps, which you can
get from offices on St. Peter's Square (next to TI or between the columns just before
thesecuritycheckpoint) orintheVatican Museum(Mon-Sat8:30-18:30,closedSun).
Vatican stamps are good throughout Rome, but to use the Vatican's mail service, you
need to mail your cards from the Vatican; write your postcards ahead of time. (Note
that the Vatican won't mail cards with Italian stamps.)
Seeing the Pope:
Your best chances for a sighting are on Sunday or Wednesday.
ThepopeusuallygivesablessingatnoononSundayfromhisapartmentonSt.Peter's
Square (except in July and August, when he speaks at his summer residence at Castel
Gandolfo,25milesfromRome,reachablebytrainfromRome'sTerminitrainstation).
St.Peter'siseasiest(justshowup)and,formost,enoughofa“visit.”Thoseinterested
in a more formal appearance (though not more intimate) can get a ticket for the Wed-
nesday general audience (at 10:30) when the pope, arriving in his Popemobile, greets
and blesses the crowds at St. Peter's from a canopied platform on the square (except
in winter, when he speaks at 10:30 in the 7,000-seat Paolo VI Auditorium, next to St.
Peter's Basilica). If you only want to see St. Peter's—but not the pope—avoid these
times (the basilica closes during papal audiences and crowds are substantial).
FortheWednesdayaudience,whileanyonecanobservefromadistance,youneed
a (free) ticket to get close to the papal action (and get a seat). To find out the pope's
scheduleandrequestaticket,see
www.vatican.va
(clickonthe“PrefectureofthePap-
al Household” link) or call 06-6988-3114.
The American Catholic Church in Rome, Santa Susanna, lets you order tickets
online (free, no booking fee but donations appreciated) for the Wednesday general
audience. Pick up your reserved tickets, or check for last-minute availability, at the
church the Tuesday before the audience between 17:00 and 18:45 (consider staying
