Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
When laying out fence lines, avoid acute angles where a horse can become cornered by
other members of the herd, even if only in play. When running, whether from fright or ex-
uberance, horses can go through or over fences.
Once you've drawn your fence map, use rocks, boards, or stakes and flags as markers to
translate the proposed plan from paper to the land. Make adjustments. When you find a lay-
out that will work, mark your postholes (inverted marking paint works well). Finally, cal-
culate the number of feet and amount of materials necessary: corner posts, brace material,
line posts, gates, fencing material (such as planks, rails, rolls of wire), and miscellaneous
supplies such as bracing wire, staples, insulators, and electric wire.
To discourage horses from jumping, 4½ feet is the absolute minimum fence height that
you should consider. Aim for a finished fence height of 5 to 6 feet (wither height), except
for stallions, larger breeds, or those specifically bred and trained for jumping, which need
an eye-level fence. For smaller horses and ponies, a fence that is just a bit higher than the
withers is usually safe.
Fence height
refers to the height of the top strand or board and includes the height of all
horizontal elements of the fence, as well as gates. Use five or six rails or strands spaced 9
inches apart as the optimum, and adjust according to the size of your horses and budget.
The bottom rail should be 8 to 12 inches off the ground.
Purchasing fencing materials in large quantities often saves you money.
