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tified by the 'safe swim' flag system. But there are others that are favoured by the surfing
community and those with masochistic tendencies.
This micro-group thrashes around, being battered by the waves until completely spent.
They then drag themselves porpoise-like towards the safety of a dry beach towel. Here they
promptly pass out and bake gently in the sun.
Capbreton, like Hossegor, is definitely another surfer's paradise. It's easy to spot this
as one rubs shoulders with fellow beach and bistro users who are often still super-glued to
various sections of wet suit. They waft around in a semi-dreamlike state, be-bangled and
sporting enormous shorts, oversize hoodies and smoking strange-smelling cigarettes.
Yes, it's a very easy-going transient community whose presence gives a distinctly bo-
hemian feel to Capbreton. Most things here 'go with the flow'. But not for Jack, of course.
He's never understood this gentle, footloose breed of human, primarily because he
seems to have been born with an electrical charge seeping through his body. He is usually
on 'crimson alert', except when asleep. But, despite the odd mutterings of 'bloody hippies',
he grudgingly tolerates this genial subculture. He is, though, much more appreciative of the
local residents whose lifestyle blends well with the tourist trade and contributes perfectly
to the general ambience.
It is often said that French women ooze sex appeal, which they mostly do, but to ex-
plain why can be more difficult. Sometimes it's in the way they walk, the way they talk,
or the way they flick an enticingly disdainful glance at a passing admirer. Items like wine
glasses, cigarettes and cosmetic compacts are utilised with great femininity. Lap dogs po-
sitioned under an arm and other accoutrements that draw attention to themselves and invite
others to steal a glance at them, also work well.
But in Capbreton it's something different again. Regardless of age, these French wo-
men definitely make the best of themselves. Usually dispensing with modesty and conven-
tional lengths of clothing, they often replace the resulting bare patches with exotically allur-
ing tattoos, which are somehow tasteful. They use lip-kissingly subtle make-up products, a
modicum of jewellery and adopt the carefree surfers' hairstyle - flyaway. These trappings
combine effortlessly to produce a perfectly natural looking beauty. The men try a little less.
Fully refreshed and intoxicated by the effects of fresh salty air, we were ready to eat.
We meandered lazily back towards the apartment, checking out menu selections from the
multitude of cafés and restaurants that line the front, looking for the one that would 'hit the
spot'. Unfortunately Jack is not a natural browser and quickly became bored.
“Right, that's it,” he snapped. “They all offer moules frites , hamburger and chips,
salads and sardines. All of them. So we're going to sit down right here, right now .”
“Oh come on, don't be so miserable. We're on holiday and each café does offer a dif-
ferent level of je ne sais quoi (I know not what).”
“That might be the case, but we've exhausted all the options, the menus are identical
and it'll be tea time in a minute.”
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