Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
9
Speeding Through France
After leaving Paris (Île-de-France), the next region we travelled through was Centre. Lying
to the southwest of Paris, it includes a large part of the Loire Valley. This area isn't quite true
to its name because although it
just
includes the geometric 'centre' of continental France, it
doesn't exactly coincide with the middle of the country. Jack frowned when he heard this and
observed that here was yet another example of French administrative trickery. It is, however,
the heart of
historic
France and was the centre of the kingdom for many centuries.
Our journey took us past Orléans, the region's capital. The city is famous for both its
prodigious production of vinegar and its historic significance during the Siege of Orléans
(1428-1429) which marked a turning point in the Hundred Years' War between France and
England. It was Joan of Arc's first military victory and the first major French success fol-
lowing the crushing defeat at Agincourt in 1415. Today, although we've never been to it, this
historic event is marked by rumbustious local celebrations each year. As I was describing
this to Jack, he raised an eyebrow and remarked that if only their military men had been as
good as their military woman, things might have been altogether better from 1914 onwards.
Blois, the next major town on our route, we already knew about because we'd stopped
off on a previous trip to see its magnificent castle. But much more mouth-watering for us
was La Sologne. This immense area of forest and heathland lies between Orléans and Blois.
Its game-filled forests and nearly 3,000 ponds were once the favoured hunting grounds of
the nobility and are now popular locations for hunters and also nature lovers.
Because we were on a mission and not to be diverted, there was no question of stopping
off for sightseeing. But even our non-stop whizz through parts of the Loire Valley didn't
stop us enjoying the gorgeous countryside. This area trades game for grapes and is abundant
with vineyards. It produces superb wines including Pouilly-Fumé, Chinon and the sparkling
wines of Touraine and Vouvray. The town of Vouvray is also renowned for its
andouillettes
sausages (the French
do
love a good sausage).
Some years ago I tried to get Jack to sample this scrumptious culinary delight and was
getting quite close until I described the ingredients. The traditional Troyes
andouillette
is
made from 'attentively selected' pork products that mainly comprise large intestines and
stomachs. On hearing this he declined somewhat ungraciously, telling me that if he wanted
