Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ing being on top whack, mesh window shades and bags stacked up against the sunny-side
windows, it was still uncomfortably hot.
As we simmered gently in the steamy cabin we became horribly infused with 'eau de
wild-boar pee'. I might have worried about Biff's health but there was no fizzing going on
and he was deliriously happy. With disgust I watched as he rubbed himself against anything
that was in close proximity, save for Sam, who sensibly growled every time he sidled up.
All this activity gave off even more noxious smells. There was no escape, the dog reeked.
By the time we reached Nyons it was early evening. With tempers now thoroughly
frayed, we staggered out of the car gulping for the fragrance of fresh air. It was especially
embarrassing to turn up in this state because, judging by its graceful eighteenth century ar-
chitecture, the hotel was obviously very refined. But there was nothing else for it, we had
to get clean.
With unpleasant odours oozing out of our pores Jack went ahead to check-in while I
guarded the fully open car and hung on to the dogs. Once the administration had been done
I left Jack to deal with the stench and strode upstairs to our bedroom with the dogs. I cast
a wistful, fleeting look around this elegant room, then grabbed Biff and unceremoniously
dumped him into an enormous cast iron bath. I proceeded to shower and smother him with
the nearest cleansing liquid to hand, which just happened to be '
shampooing pour femmes
'
(shampoo for women).
Much later, as we sat outside on the hotel terrace we were grateful for the reviving
qualities provided by the frequent ingestion of gin and tonic. With our two fat dogs at our
sides, one asleep and the other sulky but highly-perfumed, we reviewed our
domaine
visit.
There was no doubt that Jack was absolutely smitten, which was wonderful. He chat-
ted away happily about the property in general and especially the land. He animatedly de-
scribed the things he could do to improve the hunting opportunities and where he would
position his freezers 'back at the ranch'.
Such was his level of contentment that I couldn't bring myself to remind him of the
harsh realities surrounding the location. These included an access route that didn't even
qualify as a road and which had evidently been the cause of near-death experiences.
Then there was the unpredictable weather, courtesy of the mountain ranges, which (in-
cidentally) seemed to be our only neighbours, and basic shopping facilities that took a mere
hour to reach. And despite assurances to the contrary, what if it snowed? We'd be there for
months.
Putting these neurotic misgivings to the back of my mind I was determined to enjoy
the evening with my thoroughly contented husband. I comforted myself that we still had
lots more
domaines
to visit, one of which would surely be ideal for us and perhaps access-
ible without the need to buy a helicopter.
