Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the left, where a walkway crosses the river to
Pura Gunung Lebah. From there follow the
concrete path north, climbing up onto the
ridge between the two rivers. Fields of el-
ephant grass, traditionally used for thatched
roofs, slope away on either side.
Continuing north along the Campuan ridge
past the Klub Kokos lodging (a convenient
drink stop; see p191), the road improves as it
passes through paddy fields and the small vil-
lage of
Bangkiang Sidem
. On the outskirts of the
village, an unsigned road heads west, winding
down to Sungai Cerik (the west branch of
Sungai Wos), then climbing steeply up to
Payo-
gan
. From here you can walk south to the main
road, and continue along Jl Raya Sanggingan
to the restaurant Mozaic (see p197). Here,
veer to the west onto trails that stay level with
the rice fields as the main road drops away. It's
a fantasyland of coursing waterways and good
views among the rice and villas. When you
come to the steep concrete steps, take them
down to Campuan and back to Ubud.
0
500 m
0
0.3 miles
Ubud
Kutuh
Kaja
Taman
Sala
Galiang
Pura
Penataran
Sanggingan
Sasih
Tegalkuning
Tebesaya
Pura
Pejeng
Pusering
Kedewatan
Jagat
Pura
Kebo
Ubud
Edan
Museum Purbakala
Kelod
Peliatan
(Archaeological
Padangtegal
Museum)
Pura
Samuan
Ubud
Tiga
Kaja
Goa Gajah
Samuan
Campuan
(Elephant Cave)
Tiga
Pura
Campuan
Gunung
Teges
Sayan
Bridge
Lebah
Terrace
Hotel
Penestanan
Sayan
Blanco
Renaissance
Museum
Pengosekan
0
1 km
Bedulu
JI Raya
0
0.5 miles
Yeh
Penestanan
Pulu
football field;
9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun) Painting
and mask carving classes. Sessions cost from 50,000Rp for
one hour. This is also a good place to find out about other
courses being offered locally.
Santra Putra
(Map pp176-7 ;
h
WALK FACTS
Distance
: 6.5km
Duration
: 4hr
WALK FACTS
Distance
: 10km
Duration
: 3hr
Penestanan & Sayan
The wonders of Sungai Ayung are the focus
of this outing, where you will walk below the
luxury hotels built to take advantage of this
lush, tropical river valley.
Just west of the Campuan bridge, past the
Blanco Renaissance Museum, a steep uphill
road, Jl Raya Penestanan, bends left and winds
across the forested gully of the Sungai Blangsuh
to the artists village of Penestanan. West of
Penestanan, take a small road north (it's be-
fore the busy main road) that curves around
to
Sayan
. The Sayan Terrace hotel was Colin
McPhee's home in the 1930s, as chronicled in
his book
A House in Bali
. The views over the
valley of the magnificent
Sungai Ayung
are su-
perb. The best place to get to the riverside is just
north of Sayan Terrace hotel (p192) - follow
the increasingly narrower tracks down. (This
part can be tricky but there are locals who'll
show you for a tip of about 2000Rp.)
Following the rough trails north, along the
eastern side of the Ayung, you traverse steep
slopes, cross paddy fields and pass irrigation
canals and tunnels. But for many people, it's
a highlight of their walk as we're talking about
serious tropical jungle here. After about 1.5km
you'll reach the finishing point for many white-
977810; Penestan;
classes per hr 100,000Rp) Intensive painting and drawing
classes are run by abstract artist I Wayan Karja, whose
studio is on site. Accommodation is also available; see p190.
Studio Perak
(Map p188 ;
%
tively, cross the river on the nearby bridge and
climb up to the very untouristy village of
Tegal
Kuning
on the other side. There and back will
add about 1km to your walk.
fields can be tricky so don't hesitate to ask
anyone you see. Follow the trail by Sungai
Petanu back to the small road by the dump -
most of it is pretty, despite this landmark.
COURSES
Ubud is a natural place to spend a few weeks
developing your artistic or language skills, or
learning about Balinese culture and cuisine.
Two organisations, ARMA and the Pondok
Pecak Library & Learning Centre, offer a wide
range of cultural courses.
945749; www.studioperak
.com; Jl Goutama) This studio has a friendly atmosphere
and it specialises in Balinese-style silversmithing courses.
A three-hour lesson, where you'll make a finished piece,
costs 150,000Rp.
Taman Harum Cottages
(Map p201 ;
%
Pejeng & Bedulu
The beautiful temples of Pejeng and archaeo-
logical sites of Bedulu can be visited in a day's
outing. As most of the attractions are on sealed
roads, you can also go by bicycle. Looking at
the map, you'll see several places where you can
shorten the route if your energies wane. Note
that bemo to Ubud abound on Jl Bedulu.
If you have the time and energy, do the
entire loop by going to the far eastern end of
Jl Raya Ubud, and taking the small road that
continues east from there. It passes the dump,
descends steeply to cross the shady Sungai
Petanu valley, then climbs to the village of Sala.
Some back roads will take you east through
Pejeng to the main road, where you turn south
to pass several important temples and archaeo-
logical sites such as Pura Pusering Jagat and
its ancient bronze bell (see p203).
Keep walking south down through Bedulu
975567;
www.tamanharumcottages.com; Mas; lessons per hr from
US$7) In the centre of Bali's woodcarving district, this place
offers carving and painting courses. You can also learn how
to make the temple offerings found just about everywhere.
See p207 for details on accommodation.
Threads of Life Indonesian Textile Arts Center
(Map pp176-7 ;
%
Arts & Crafts
The Ubud area is the best place for art courses.
A wide range of courses is available including
batik, jewellery making and painting.
ARMA
(Map pp176-7 ;
972187; www.threadsoflife.com; Jl
Kajeng 24) Textile appreciation courses in the gallery and
educational studio start at 150,000Rp. The range of classes
includes ones that involve extensive travel around Bali.
%
976659; www.armamuseum
%
.com; Jl Raya Pengosekan;
9am-6pm) A cultural
powerhouse offering classes in painting, woodcarving and
batik. Other courses include Balinese history, Hinduism and
architecture. Classes cost US$25 to US$50.
Nirvana Batik Course
(Map p188;
h
Cooking
Balinese Cooking Courses
(Map pp176-7 ;
973283;
www.casalunabali.com; Honeymoon Guesthouse, JI Bisma)
Janet de Neefe runs regular cooking courses at her guesthouse.
Half-day courses (250,000Rp) are held five days per week
and cover ingredients, cooking techniques and the cultural
%
975415; www
.nirvanaku.com; Nirvana Pension & Gallery, Jl Goutama 10;
h
%
classes 10am-3pm Mon, Wed & Sat) Nyoman Suradnya
