Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Money
Ubud has numerous banks, ATMs and money-
changers along Jl Raya Ubud and Monkey
Forest Rd.
UBUD
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Ubud is culture, yes. It's also home to some
of Bali's best restaurants, cafés and streets of
shops, many selling goods from the region's
artisans and craftmakers. There's somewhere
to stay for every budget, and no matter what
the price you can enjoy lodgings that reflect
the local zeitgeist : artful, creative and serene.
The weather is slightly cooler but much
wetter than the south; expect it to rain at any
time. At night mountain breezes obviate a
slumberer's need for air-con.
Spend a few days in Ubud to appreciate it
properly. It's one of those places where days
can become weeks and weeks become months,
as the noticeable expatriate community
demonstrates.
For details on routes and sights to Ubud
from South Bali, see the section South of
Ubud, p204 .
HISTORY
Late in the 19th century, Cokorda Gede Su-
kawati established a branch of the Sukawati
royal family in Ubud and began a series of
alliances and confrontations with neighbour-
ing kingdoms. In 1900, with the kingdom of
Gianyar, Ubud became (at its own request) a
Dutch protectorate and was able to concen-
trate on its religious and cultural life.
The Cokorda's descendants encouraged
Western artists and intellectuals to visit the area
in the 1930s, most notably Walter Spies, Colin
McPhee and Rudolf Bonnet (see Western
Visitors in the 1930s, p52). They provided an
enormous stimulus to local art, introduced
new ideas and techniques, and began a process
of displaying and promoting Balinese culture
worldwide. As mass tourism arrived on Bali,
Ubud became an attraction not for beaches
or bars, but for the arts.
For an in-depth look at Ubud's history and
present-day culture, seek a copy of Ubud Is A
Mood . This lavishly illustrated book includes
photos by local Rio Helmi (see p180) and is far
superior to your average tourist book.
ORIENTATION
today. The centre of town is the junction of
Monkey Forest Rd and Jl Raya Ubud, where
the bustling market and crowded bemo (small
minibus) stops are found, as well as Ubud
Palace and the main temple, Pura Desa Ubud.
Monkey Forest Rd (officially Jl Wanara Wana,
but always known by its unofficial name) runs
south to Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary and
is lined with shops, hotels and restaurants.
Jl Raya Ubud ('Ubud Main Rd' - often Jl
Raya for short) is the main east-west road.
In the east, a mix of cheap accommodation,
idiosyncratic shops and little cafés gives Jl
Goutama a feel of Ubud 25 years ago. West
of Ubud, the road drops steeply down to the
ravine at Campuan, where an old suspension
bridge, next to the new one, hangs over the
Sungai Wos. West of Campuan, the pretty
village of Penestanan is famous for its paint-
ers and bead-work. East and south of Ubud
proper, the 'villages' of Peliatan, Nyuhkuning
and Pengosekan and are known variously
for painting, woodcarving and traditional
dance. The latter has been the focus of recent
development, with rice paddies giving way
to new hotels. The area north of Ubud is
less densely settled, with picturesque paddy
fields interspersed with small villages, many
of which specialise in a local craft.
Cinta Bookshop (Map p188 ;
973295; Jl Dewi Sita) Nice
assortment of used novels and vintage books about Bali.
Ganesha Bookshop (Map pp176-7 ;
%
970320; www
.ganeshabooksbali.com; Jl Raya Ubud) Ubud's best bookshop
has an amazing amount of stock jammed into the small
space. Excellent selection of titles on Indonesian studies,
travel, arts and music, fiction (including used titles) and
maps. Good recommendations and mail-order service.
Neka Art Museum (p178) Good range of art books.
Periplus (Map p188 ;
%
Post
Main post office (Map pp176-7; Jl Jembawan;
8am-
h
6pm) Has a sort-it-yourself poste restante system -
address poste restante mail to Kantor Pos, Ubud 80571,
Bali, Indonesia.
975178; Monkey Forest Rd)
A typically glossy branch of the Bali chain. Also a new
location in Campuan (Map pp176-7;
%
Tourist Information
Ubud Tourist Information ( Yaysan Bina Wisata; Map
p188 ;
976149; Bintang
Centre, Jl Raya Campuan) Large store with small café.
Pondok Pecak Library & Learning Centre ( below )
Regularly thins its collection and has some excellent fiction
for sale.
Rendezvousdoux (Map p188 ;
%
8am-8pm) The one
really useful tourist office on Bali. It has a good range of
information and a notice board listing current happenings
and activities. The staff can answer most regional
questions and have up-to-date information on ceremonies
and traditional dances held in the area; dance tickets are
sold here.
SIGHTS
Palaces & Temples
Ubud Palace and Puri Saren Agung (Map p188 ; cnr
Jl Raya Ubud & Jl Suweta) share space in the heart
of Ubud. The compound has many ornate
corners and was mostly built after the 1917
earthquake. The local royal family still lives
here and you can wander around most of the
large compound exploring the many tradi-
tional and not excessively ornate buildings.
If you really like it, you can stay the night
( p190 ).
Just north, Pura Marajan Agung (Map p188 ; Jl
Suweta) has one of the finest gates you'll find
and is the private temple for Ubud's royal
family.
Pura Desa Ubud (Map p188; Jl Raya Ubud) is the
main temple for the Ubud community. Just
a bit west is the very picturesque Pura Taman
Saraswati (Ubud Water Palace; Map p188; Jl Raya Ubud) .
Waters from the temple at the rear of the site
feed the pond in the front, which overflows
with pretty lotus blossoms. There are carvings
that honour Dewi Saraswati, the goddess of
wisdom and the arts, who has clearly given
her blessing to Ubud. There are weekly dance
performances.
973285; Jl Raya Ubud;
%
h
747 0163; Jl Raya Ubud
%
14;
) Small selection of books, many French titles.
a
Emergency
Police station (Map pp176-7;
975316; Jl Raya
%
Andong;
24hr) Located east, at Andong.
h
Internet Access
The following two neighbouring places are a
cut above average with fast broadband con-
nections and large screens.
@Highway (Map pp176-7 ;
972107; Jl Raya Ubud; per
%
min 500Rp;
) Full-service and very fast.
Bali 3000 (Map pp176-7 ;
24hr;
h
a
978538; Jl Raya Ubud; per
%
Maps
The maps in this guidebook will be sufficient
for most visitors, but if you want to explore
the surrounding villages on foot or by bi-
cycle, the locally sold Bali Pathfinder map
is useful.
INFORMATION
Along the main roads, you'll find most serv-
ices you need including travel agents and
wartel (public telephone offices).
Ubud is home to many non-profit and
volunteer groups; see p348 for details.
hr 16,000Rp;
) Fashionable internet
café with a full range of computing services and good
sandwiches, coffees and juices.
8am-11pm;
h
a
Watch for Ubud's many cafés to adopt the
trend to install wi-fi access. One already
equipped is Coffee & Silver; see p194.
Libraries
Pondok Pecak Library & Learning Centre (Map
p188 ;
976194; Monkey Forest Rd, on the far side of the
football field;
%
9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun) A relaxed
place, with a children's book section. Charges membership
fees for library use. Small café and a pleasant reading area
on the roof. See p185 for information on cultural courses.
h
Bookshops
Ubud is the best place on Bali for book shop-
ping. Selections are wide and varied and you
can get numerous books about Balinese art
and culture. Many carry titles by small and
obscure publishers. Shops typically carry
newspapers such as the International Herald
Tribune .
Medical Ser vices
See Health ( p366 ) for details on international
clinics and hospitals in Bali.
Mua Pharmacy (Map p188;
Museums
MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN
974674; Monkey Forest
%
Rd;
8am-9pm)
h
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