South Bali - Bali and Lombok - page 60

Water Sports
Various water sports are offered at kiosks along
the beach: close to Museum Le Mayeur; near
Sanur Beach Market; and at Surya Water Sports
(Map p140 ;

vary greatly. The nicer ones are bungalows
while more modest ones share kitchens and
have cold water. The design takes a lot of cues
from traditional Balinese style; the bathrooms
are works of stone. There is also a new café.
Hotel Palm Gardens ( Taman Palm; Map p140;

architecture, large bathrooms, and a small
pool. It's a short walk to the beach, which you
can see from some rooms.
Diwangkara Beach Hotel (Map p140 ;

SANUR'S ENVIRONMENTAL HUB
PPLH Bali (Pusat Pendidikan Lingkungan Hidup;
Map 281684; www.pplhbali.or.id; Jl

Danau Tamblingan 168) organises a broad
range of environmental and educational
programmes. Located in the Hotel Santai
(see left), the PPLH has a large library and
resource centre. Volunteers and employees
are understandably passionate about Bali,
its land, the sea and the environmental chal-
lenges faced across the island.
Just dropping by to peruse some of the
wealth of information on issues such as fair
trade or have a chat is an illuminating break.
Donations and possibly volunteer services
are welcome. With the hotel, the adjacent
Café Tali Jiwa helps fund the centre.

p140 ; 288577;

[e-mail]; Jl Hang Tuah 54; r from US$40;
ais

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287956; Jl Duyung) . Prices at all three
places are similar, and are based on a minimum
of two people. You can go parasailing (US$20
per go), jet-skiing (US$25, 15 minutes), water-
skiing (US$25, 15 minutes), snorkelling by
boat (US$30, two hours), windsurfing (US$30,
one hour), or be towed with a pal on an inflat-
able banana (US$15, 15 minutes).

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) Facing the beach near the end of Jl
Hang Tuah, this 38-room hotel is a tad old-
fashioned (especially the pool), but the smaller
bungalows are right by the beach.
Tamu Kami Hotel (Map p140 ;

287041;
www.palmgarden-bali.com; Jl Kesumasari 3; r from 275,000Rp;
as

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) Everything is peaceful here, from the 17
large and comfy rooms to the relaxed service
and pretty grounds. It's close to the beach and
there is a nice medium-sized pool with a small
waterfall.
Hotel Segara Agung (Map p140 ;

282510; www.tamu
kami.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan 64X; r US$35-70;

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)
There are 20 large, modern rooms and bun-
galows, finished with Indonesian touches,
overlooking a swimming pool. It is also home
to Alise's Restaurant, p145.
Respati Bali (Map p140;

as

288446; www
.segaraagung.com; Jl Duyung 43; r US$20-35, f US$50;

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Spas
Natural Spa (Map p140 ;

)
Down a quiet, unpaved residential street, the
hotel is only a two-minute walk to the beach.
The 16 rooms are clean and pleasant, staff are
friendly and there's a big swimming pool.
Stana Puri Gopa Hotel (Map p140 ;

as

283677; Jl Danau Tamblingan

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9am-11pm) is a huge
operation, which offers various massages,
reflexology and body treatments, including
an after-sun treatment.
Most of the large beachside hotels also have
spas.

23; 2hr massage 450,000Rp; 288427; [e-mail]

.id; Jl Danau Tamblingan 33; r US$40-60;

h %

) Despite
its narrow site, the Respati's 32 contemporary
bungalow-style rooms don't feel cramped.
The beach frontage is a plus and the pool is
decent-sized.

as

289948; www
.purigopabali.com; Jl Kesumasari 4; r US$30-45;

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)
This 24-room hotel has traditional Balinese

as

Keke Homestay (Map p140 ;

287282; Jl Danau
Tamblingan 96; s/d 60,000/75,000Rp, with air-con
100,000/150,000Rp;

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SLEEPING
Usually the best places to stay are right on
the beach; however, that isn't always the case
here. A few of the properties have been coast-
ing for decades. But in general you shouldn't
have a problem finding a place you'll enjoy.
Modest budgets will find fiscal succour on
the nonbeach side of Jl Danau Tambligan,
although overall Sanur is a top-end town.
In case you find yourself at the mercy of a
travel agent, don't let them book you into either
the Inna Grand Bali Beach Hotel or the Inna
Sindhu Beach. Both are well past their prime.

) Set back a little from the
noisy main road, Keke welcomes travellers
and has seven quiet, clean rooms. All have
cold water and fans.
Ananda Beach Hotel (Map p140 ;

a

A CLASSIC BALINESE DANCER
Besides its cultural importance, Balinese dance just may be a fountain of youth as well. Ask
Nyoman Supadmi when she started teaching the art and she says '1970'. A little quick mental
calculation confirms that she looks at most half her age.
Lithe and lively, Nyoman has taught thousands of women the precise moves and elaborate
choreography demanded by classic Balinese dances such as Legong. And the key word is classic
as she has become a major force against the dilution of the island's great dances by what she
dismisses as 'modernity'.
And just what is this aberration that brings such a frown to her otherwise serene face. Well,
she demonstrates. 'The basic moves of classic dance require enormous discipline,' she says as
she slips into the rigid pose with splayed arms and wide eyes that is immediately recognisable
to anyone who has seen a performance.
Continuing, she says, 'Modern is like this,' and slumps into a slouch that would do any slacker
proud. Still, she understands the allure of the modern. 'It's much easier to learn and people have
so many distractions that they can't find the time to learn the old ways.
'My teachers emphasised the basics,' says Nyoman - whose dancer mother provided her with
a private tutor. 'Your hand went here and your bottom here,' a statement backed up by a seem-
ingly simple shift of position in her chair that leaves no doubt of her meaning.
'Today people just approximate the position.'
In order to preserve classic Balinese dance, Nyoman promotes dance courses in the schools for
students from age five. She keeps an eye out for promising pupils, who can then be guided for
the years needed to master the art. A niece is one of these stars and is now much in demand
for temple ceremonies and other occasions where sponsors demand the best.
'But the best is expensive,' she admits. There are the fees for large gamelan orchestras, the dances,
actors, transport, food and 'just getting people to commit the time needed to be the best.'
Besides local women, Nyoman also teaches visitors, although the coursework is not for those
looking for a quick lesson: learning the basics of one dance requires at least 36 two-hour lessons

288327; Jl Hang

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) Right on the beach,
the Ananda has slightly dark rooms that are
jumble of antiques and furniture that's simply
old. Deluxe room no 7 has a nice balcony
with sea views.
Hotel Santai (Map p140 ;

Tuah 143; s/d US$12/15;

s

287314; santai@indosat
.net.id; Jl Danau Tamblingan 148; s/d 130,000/150,000Rp;
s

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) The Santai has 17 clean rooms facing a
large pool (nonguests can take the plunge for
5000Rp). It's home to PPLH Bali, see above.
Jati Homestay (Map p140 ;

Budget
Watering Hole I (Map p140 ; 288289; wateringhole

[e-mail]; Jl Hang Tuah 37; r 60,000-100,000Rp;
a

281730; www.balivision
.com/hotels/jatihomestay; Jl Danau Tamblingan; r 150,000-
200,000Rp) Situated in pretty grounds, the
delightful Jati has 15 pleasant and clean bun-
galows, with small but well-organised kitchen
facilities and hot water.
Kesumasari (Map p140 ;

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) In the northern part of Sanur, the Hole is
a busy, friendly place close to the Nusa Lem-
bongan boats. There are 25 pleasant, clean
rooms with the cheapest having fan cooling
and cold water.
Watering Hole II (Map p140 ;

287824; Jl Kesumasari 6; r

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) The only thing between
you and the beach is a small shrine. Beyond
the comfy lounging porches, the polychro-
matic carved Balinese doors don't prepare
you for the riot of colour inside. No two linens
match.

270545; watering
[e-mail]; Jl Mertasari; r 80,000-125,000Rp;
as

150,000-200,000Rp;

% a

) The southern branch of the Hole group
has 14 rooms and a pool with a little waterfall.
All rooms have hot water; the cheaper ones
have fans.
Yulia 2 Homestay (Map p140 ;

287495; kf_billy@indo

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