its bluff, you get a good view of all the area
Coming from the east to Suluban you will
first encounter a gated parking area (car/
motorcycle 2000/1000Rp), which is about a
400m walk from the water. Continuing over
a bridge, there is an older parking area (car/
motorcycle 1000/500Rp) that is a hilly 200m
from the water. Watch out for 'gate-keepers'
looking for bonuses.
Watch out for monkeys, which - when not
reproducing - like to snatch sunglasses, hand-
bags, hats and anything else within reach.
An enchanting Kecak dance is held in
the temple grounds at sunset; tickets cost
35,000Rp. Although the performance obvi-
ously caters for tourists, the gorgeous setting
makes it one of the more delightful on the
DETOUR: THE SOUTH COAST
The south coast of the Bukit Peninsula has high wind-blown cliffs and big swells. Development
choked off after the 1990s and, as you gaze out to the whitecaps of the Indian Ocean, you know
you're at the edge of things.
Lots of little tracks lead to the cliffs from the southern roads linking Nusa Dua with Pecatu
via Kuluh. Try exploring some. From the west, look for a steep track down to the beach and the
Green Ball surf break about 4km from the little village of Ulu Watu. Other roads lead down to
the coast to small beaches and sea temples such as Pura Gunung Payung (Map p128), which
is near the invasive Nikko Bali Resort, a Soeharto-era leftover. Diminutive Pura Mas Suka (Map
p128) is reached by a twisting narrow road through a barren, red-rock landscape, but the views
are divine. See p79 for details of the area's surf breaks.
There's a whole string of cheap and very basic
surfing dives on the main road from Pecatu. If
you're not picky you can count on being able
to find accommodation of some sort near the
surf break of your choice. Expect to pay about
50,000Rp for a room with cold water, a fan
and a shared bathroom. Many surfers choose
to stay in Kuta and make the commute of less
than an hour.
Thomas Homestay (Map p128;
Sights & Activities
A paved road goes northwest from Pecatu
village (turn right at the small temple), pass-
ing a rugged small side road branching off to
Bingin, a popular beach with savage surf and
a renowned left break. Impossibles is nearby,
Padang Padang is about one kilometre on and
there is parking just north of a bridge.
Ulu Watu (Ulu's) is a legendary surf spot -
the stuff of dreams and nightmares. It's about
one kilometre south of Padang Padang and
its legend is matched closely by nearby Pantai
Suluban . Since the early 1970s these breaks
have drawn surfers from around the world.
The left breaks seem to go on forever.
See p79 for more on surfing in this area.
Nusa Dua translates literally as 'Two Islands' -
although they are actually small raised head-
lands, each with a little temple. But Nusa Dua is
much better known as Bali's gated compound
of resort hotels. It's a vast and manicured place
where you leave the rest of the island as you
pass the guard. Gone are the street vendors,
hustle, bustle and engaging chaos of the rest of
the island. Here you even talk more quietly.
Built in the 1970s, Nusa Dua was designed
to compete with international beach resorts
the world over. The goal was to attract free-
spending holiday-makers while keeping them
isolated from the rest of the island. Balinese
'culture' in the form of attenuated dances and
other performances was literally trucked in for
the masses nightly.
With thousands of hotel rooms Nusa Dua
took on a definite life when it was full. But
these days occupancy is down, with many
people who want an anonymous beach holi-
day going elsewhere. The Bali Collection, a
shopping centre that is continually rebuilt in
an effort to give it a spark, is more desolate
walled camp than festive retail centre.
Still, the hotel grounds are as well groomed
as the staff and there is a huge range of serv-
ices at these places. Just outside the gates, the
village of Bualu is a real Balinese town. It has
shops with decent prices and tourist restau-
rants that would not be out of place in Kuta.
has a lovely pool where you can float while
the sun goes down. Service and the restaurant
are both high calibre.
Most of the hotels and inns have restaurants
and any beach where there's surfers will have
a few warung selling necessities like beer.
There are cafés on the road looping around
from Pecatu, with several nice ones near Pura
Luhur Ulu Watu.
Jiwa Juice (Map p128 ;
0813-3813 0583; r
60,000-70,000Rp) A bare-bones four-room place
on cliffs overlooking a lonely beach of people
fishing and seaweed growers. The cold-water
bathrooms are shared. Look for the crushed
coral road just west of the Padang Padang
Padang Padang Inn (Map p128 ;
7424196; Jl Melasti; sand-
) Jiwa means 'soul',
and the juices and fresh, light food here are
good for the same. This popular stop has
Yeye's Warung (Map p128; Jl Labuan Sait; dishes 18,000-
25,000Rp) A gathering point away from the
cliffs, there's an easy-going ambience, cheap-
ish beers and tasty Western, Indonesian and
vegetarian food. Many gather for the pizza.
0812 391 3617;
Jl Melasti 432; r 70,000Rp) A better than average
budget place, this place has 24 clean rooms
with private cold-water bathrooms and a nice
Gong (Map p128 ;
PURA LUHUR ULU WATU
This temple (Map p128; admission 3000Rp, incl sarong
& sash rental; parking 1000Rp;
8am-7pm) is one of
several important temples to the spirits of
the sea along the south coast of Bali. In the
11th century, the Javanese priest Empu Ku-
turan first established a temple here. The
temple was added to by Nirartha, another
Javanese priest who is known for the seafront
temples at Tanah Lot (see p272), Rambut
Siwi (see p278) and Pura Sakenan (see p147).
Nirartha retreated to Ulu Watu for his final
days when he attained moksa (freedom from
The temple is perched precipitously on the
southwestern tip of the peninsula, atop sheer
cliffs that drop straight into the pounding
surf. You enter through an unusual arched
gateway flanked by statues of Ganesha. Inside
the walls of coral bricks are covered with
intricate carvings of Bali's mythological men-
agerie. Only Hindu worshippers can enter the
small inner temple.
081-5578 4754; thegongacc@yahoo
.com; Jl Pantai Suluban; r 175,000Rp) You can't go
wrong at the Gong. Eight tidy rooms with
good ventilation and hot water face a small
compound and have distant ocean views.
There's also a café and surf shop.
Rocky Bungalows (Map p128 ;
Getting There & Away
The best way to see the west coast is with your
own vehicle or by chartering a taxi. Note that
the cops often set up traps near Pecatu Indah
for motorcycle-riding Westerners. While you
pay a fine for a 'loose' chin strap, helmet-less
locals wiz by laughing.
Public bemo to Ulu Watu are infrequent
and stop running by mid-afternoon. Some
of the dark-blue bemo from Kuta serve Jim-
baran and Ulu Watu - it's best to catch one
west of Tuban (on Jl Raya Kuta, outside the
Supernova shopping centre) or Jimbaran (on
Jl Ulu Watu).
You may see offers in Kuta or Sanur to
see the sunset or the Kecak dance at the tem-
0817 346 209; off Jl
) There's noth-
ing ostentatious about this low-key place just
west of the Padang Padang surf break. It has
10 rooms with views out to sea from the bal-
conies and pool and is a three-minute walk
to the water.
Uluwatu Resort (Map p128 ;
Ulu Watu; r 250,000-450,000Rp;
turesort.com; Jl Pantai Suluban; villas US$70-100;
On the cliff top across the river from Pantai
Suluban, this stylish place has the kind of
ocean views you go on holiday for. It's laid-
back and a good place to soak up the sea.
Orientation & Information
Nusa Dua is very spread out. You enter the en-
clave through one of the big guarded gateways,
and inside there are expansive lawns, mani-
cured gardens and sweeping driveways lead-