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has smallish rooms with open-air cold-water
bathrooms. Some have air-con, others share a
modest pool. There's a modest café in front.
Jimbaran Ocean Cottages (Map p130 ;
sea located three kilometres southwest of Jim-
baran. Rooms are spacious and set in large
blocks. With 290 rooms and 48 villas, this is
the place for people who want a grand and
lavish resort setting. The Ritz jealously guards
its own gorgeous beach.
Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay (Map p130 ;
702253;; Jl Pantai Jimbaran 3; r 150,000Rp,
with air-con 200,000-250,000Rp;
) Things are pretty
tight here but you cannot beat the location
across from the beach. All 15 rooms have hot
water and there is a nice café on the 2nd floor
with good views.
701010;; villas with/without ocean frontage
) The 147 villas are
designed in a traditional Balinese manner
complete with a carved entranceway, which
opens onto an open-air dining pavilion over-
looking a water-sucking plunge pool. The
spa is guests-only, which keeps the riff-raff
out - maybe they can keep eating cake. The
Ganeesha Gallery with its regular exhibitions
of fine Balinese art draws many visitors.
Hotel Puri Bambu (Map p130 ;
701377; www.puri
) A mere 200m
from the beach, it's an attractive, low-key and
good-value option. It has 48 standard rooms
in three-storey blocks around a pool.
Udayana Eco Lodge (Map p130 ;; r US$40-70;
747 4204; www; s/d 550,000/600,000Rp;
The warung are the destination of tourists
across the south. Jimbaran's three groups of
seafood warung do fresh barbecued seafood
every evening (and noon at many). The open-
sided affairs are right by the beach and perfect
for enjoying sea breezes and sunsets. Tables
and chairs are set up on the sand almost to
the water's edge.
The usual deal is to select your seafood
fresh from iced displays or tanks and pay
according to weight. Expect to pay around
35,000Rp per 100g for live lobster, 15,000Rp
to 20,000Rp for prawns, and 7500Rp for fish,
squid and clams. Prices are open to negotia-
tion and the accuracy of the scales is a joke
among locals.
At the best places the fish is soaked in a gar-
lic and lime marinade, then doused with chilli
and oil while grilling over coconut husks. At
night you can't see the thick clouds of smoke
from the coals. But you can hear the roam-
ing bands, who perform tunes from the 'I've
got to be me' playlist. Many people actually
join in.
The longest row of restaurants is at the
northern seafood warung , south of the fish mar-
ket. This is the area where you will be taken
by a taxi if you don't specify otherwise. Most
of these places are restaurant-like with tables
inside and out on the immaculate raked sand.
Call for free transport to/from much of the
south. Recommendations include:
Inland near Udayana University, this lodge
has grand views over South Bali from its perch
on a knoll in 70 hectares of bushland. The 15
rooms are comfortable and there is an inviting
common area with a fine library. You can join
in the fun of Sunday cricket matches.
At this price level, scout around for deals
during slack periods.
Puri Kosala (Map p130 ;
701673; www.purikosala
.com; Jl Yoga Perkanti 2; villas US$135-180;
) With
only six comfortable cottages, this secluded
resort makes for a good getaway. It's close to
the beach and has a large pool and interest-
ing gardens.
Pansea Puri Bali (Map p130 ;
701605; www.pansea
.com; Jl Yoga Perkanti; cottages US$150-250;
Set in nice grounds complete with a figure-
eight pool that looks onto open ocean, the 41
cottages have private gardens, deeply shaded
patios and stylish room design. Huge-screen
TVs should lure couch potatoes.
Hotel Intercontinental Bali (Map p130 ;
701888;; Jl Ulu Watu; r from US$155;
) With 425 rooms, the Inter-
continental is really a megalopolis, but it's a
beautiful behemoth, decorated with Balinese
arts and handicrafts. The plethora of pools
feed each other and meander through the
grounds. There is a good kids' club and the
crescent of beach is fine.
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