A popular surf spot, Canggu draws a lot
of locals at weekends. On the way you'll
spot quite a few satellite dishes poking above
the rice paddies denoting the locations of
expat villas. Every road going towards the
ocean ends at a beach where there's usually
a warung or two. For details on surfing here,
see p78 .
Right at Canggu Beach, Hotel Tugu Bali
For a romantic getaway, Villa Seri (Map p100 ;
lauded for its conservation and historical
Rio Helmi (
733238; Jl Oberoi 1B) How about
a US$25 Buddha head, perfect for a pendant?
This shop bulges with trinkets, beads, silver
and other cheap and cheerful jewellery.
GET TING THERE & AROUND
Most transport information is the same as for
Kuta (p115). Metered taxis are easily hailed.
A trip from the airport in an official airport
taxi costs 60,000Rp, to the airport less than
half that. A taxi to the heart of Kuta will be
about 12,000Rp. You can beat the traffic and
have a good stroll by walking the beach south.
Legian is about 20 minutes away.
Toko Morocco (
735688; www.riohelmi.com; Jl Raya
Basangkasa 88) This small gallery of the noted
Ubud-based photographer shows his work
and that of many others.
730262; www.villaseri.com; Br Umalas Kauh; r from US$65,
villas from US$135;
) is a great little hideaway.
A recent revamp has only improved a lovely
property. Rooms are more refined, with styl-
ish stone bathrooms, kitchens in the villas and
more. The beach is a 10-minute walk.
0818-0553 1857; Jl Mertanadi) Whimsical
painted furniture and carved wooden figures
with elongated forms that look like Gumby
on a bad day. Many items come from carving
villages near Ubud.
About 1km north of the jail, off Jl Raya Kero-
bokan, Warung Gossip (Map p100 ;
731701; www.tuguhotels.com; Jl Pantai Batu Bolong,
Desa Canggu; r US$200-500;
) is an exquisite
hotel surrounded by rice fields and beach. It
blurs the boundaries between a museum and
gallery, especially the Walter Spies and Le
Mayeur Pavilions, where memorabilia from
the artists' lives decorates the rooms. The
stunning collection of antiques and artwork
begins in the lobby and extends throughout
the hotel. There's a spa and numerous cus-
tomised dining options. The artful rooms
To get to Canggu, go west at Kerobokan
and south at Kayutulang. Taxis from Kuta
will run 40,000Rp or more.
The next popular beach northwest of Canggu
Beach is Echo Beach, or Batu Mejan. Besides
the surfers' warung , there's the Beach House
0817 970 3209; Jl
always popular thanks to its top-notch versions
of Balinese warung staples. Get a plate, tell the
staff what you'd like and soon you'll be enjoying
a fine lunch at one of the shady tables. There's
also a café area for more formal dining.
At the corner of Jl Raya Kerobokan and Jl
Gunung Tangkuban Perahu there's a scrump-
tious little fruit market (Map p100).
Pengubengan Kauh; meals 15,000-20,000Rp;
737054; Jl Raya Seminyak 6) Tenganan,
the Aga village of East Bali (p225), produces
the intricate and beautiful rattan items sold
here. Containers, bowls, purses and more
NORTH OF SEMINYAK
Growth is marching north and west along the
coast, much of it anchored by the continuing
beaches. Kerobokan is rivalling Seminyak for
the affections of local expats. Villas and large
shops dot the imperilled rice fields. Traffic can
be an evil spirit: like elsewhere, road-building
is a decade or two behind settlement.
Small roads lead off the main clogged artery
to Pura Tanah Lot and to beaches at Berewa,
Canggu, Batu Mejan (Echo Beach) and Per-
erenan Beach. These are uncrowded and wild,
with pounding surf, deadly swimming and
sweeping views to the south.
Getting to most of the places listed is really
only convenient with your own transport or
by taxi. Think 20,000Rp or more from Kuta.
Lots of interesting little places can be found
here, a trend sure to continue. To get here
from Kuta and points south, follow Jl Le-
gian north, through its Jl Raya Seminyak
phase until it becomes Jl Raya Kerobokan just
north of Seminyak. One notable landmark is
the jail , home to Schapelle Corby and other
746 4260; Jl Mertanadi 67A) Higher end
interior items like modern-style ikat and cool
statuary fill this attractive shop. Almost every-
thing is made in Bali and profits are ploughed
back into the villages.
G&V Amazing Crafts (
Buy 'em by the kilo at JJ Bali Button (Map p100 ;
743 3853; Jl Oberoi 99x)
Antique Balinese décor and contemporary
bits are combined in this large shop. Look for
gems like an old Dutch basinet.
730001; Jl Gunung Tangkuban Perahu) . Zillions of
beads and buttons made from shells, plastic,
metal and more are displayed in what first
looks like a candy store. Elaborately carved
wooden buttons are 700Rp.
Typical of some of the posher empori-
ums here, Asia Style (Map p100 ;
0815-5800 2815; Jl Mertanadi 54) Feel like
royalty here with everything from knock-offs
of items from the various French Louis's, to
regal bits of décor from around the globe.
Rama Shinta Ki Jay (
738471; Jl Pura Batu Mejan; dishes 5000-40,000Rp) ,
which faces the waves and draws stylish
loungers. It has a variety of couches and
tables where you can hang out, watch the
waves and enjoy the menu of breakfasts, sand-
wiches and salads.
Yet to be found by the right developer, this is
the beach if you want your sand wind-swept
and your waves unridden. It's southeast of
Pura Tanah Lot; you get here from the south
Once you've found it, why leave? The
friendly guys at Pondok Wisata Nyoman (
734599; Jl Raya
Kerobokan 3) has Chinese antiques collected in
Bali, vintage travel posters, crepe-silk sarongs
(250,000Rp) and a whole lot more.
The greyish beach, secluded among stun-
ning paddy fields, is 6km along the beach
from Kuta (by car it's closer to 15km). The
turn-off is along the road heading west from
Kerobokan. There are some decent cafés and
warung in the village, 200m from the beach.
Legong Keraton (Map p100;
081-2360 6979; Jl Raya Semin-
yak 70) Dedicated to all things incense, this
shop is an orgasm for your nose. Sniff out the
St Isador (
738836; Jl Oberoi 44) The workshops
upstairs spew forth lovely bed linens, cushions
and other items made from fabrics imported
from across Asia. A beautiful scene.
Ticket to the Moon (
735131; Jl Raya Kerobokan 14) Is
it furniture if it fits in your backpack? Very cool
hammocks (160,000Rp) are the thing here, with
a range of models, including one for babies.
You Like Lamp (
keratonhotel.com; Berewa Beach; r US$55-85;
733755; Jl Mertanadi 32) Why
yes, we do. All manner of endearing little
paper lamps - many good for tea lights - are
sold here cheap by the bagful. Don't see what
you want? The staff working away on the floor
will rustle it up immediately.
) A very
attractive 40-room hotel right on the beach,
this place is very well run and makes a good
get-away. The grounds are shaded by palms
and the pool borders the beach. The best
rooms are in bungalow units facing the surf.
2390 6900; Jl Raya Pantai Pererenan; r 100,000Rp) have four
simple rooms (although the bathrooms are a
tad arty) just behind the beach. There's a tiny
café nearby and that's it.
Umalas Stables (Map p100 ;
.com; Jl Lestari 9X) , 5km north of Seminyak, has
a stable of 30 horses and ponies, and offers
one-hour rice field tours for US$30, and two-/