villas, ocean views and private, walled pools.
From the café overlooking the almost private
sweep of beach to the numerous luxuries, this
is a place to spoil yourself.
Gado Gado (
Tuesday Night Pizza Club (
Waroeng Bonita (
736966; Jl Dhyana Pura; mains 70,000-
150,000Rp) The location right on the beach is
the primary draw here. To the sounds of surf,
enjoy the good service and an interesting
menu of Asian and Mediterranean fusion
dishes. Brunch is popular.
730614; Jl Oberoi; pizza
731918; Jl Petitenget 2000x;
dishes 20,000-60,000Rp) Balinese dishes such as
ikan rica-rica (fresh fish in a spicy green chilli
sauce) are the specialties at this cute little place
with tables under the trees.
6pm-midnight) Pizzas come in
five sizes at this brightly lit joint and have a
range of goofy names like Hawaii Five-O (ham
and pineapple) and Blue Velvet (a tasty combo
of blue cheese and crispy bacon). There's fast
and efficient delivery.
730622; www.ghmhotels.com; Jl Pantai Kaya
Aya; ste from US$300, villa from US$600;
The Legian is flashier than its main com-
petitor, the Oberoi. All 67 rooms claim to
be suites, even if some are just large rooms
(called 'studios'). On a little bluff, the views
are panoramic and of the many personal serv-
ices offered you can enjoy gourmet dining at a
table set up by the surf. The design mixes tra-
ditional materials with contemporary flair.
736443; Jl Pantai Kaya Aya; mains 50,000-
11-2am) Like many of the fine
open-air dining spots nearby, oodles of little
tea lights provide a romantic glow at night.
There's steak, seafood and a good selection
of vegetarian dishes.
Living Room (
Jl Raya Seminyak
Café Moka (
738720; Jl Oberoi 100; mains 20,000-
6pm-midnight) This arch-rival of
Trattoria is always packed thanks to good
food at great prices. Such a concept! Terrace
tables are always in demand. Steaks and pasta
dominate the long menu.
731424; Jl Raya Seminyak; dishes 15,000-
) Enjoy French-style baked goods
at this always-popular bakery. Fresh deli
cuisine is served for lunch and dinner. The
bulletin board is a window into the local expat
Warung Ocha's (
735735; Jl Petitenget; mains 80,000-
noon-midnight) At night hundreds
of candles twinkle on and about the scores of
outdoor tables at this open-to-the-stars res-
taurant (which has become more elegant after
a cross-street move). The menu is Asian with
good Thai, Vietnamese and Balinese dishes.
Kafe Warisan (
737082; Jl Oberoi; mains 35,000-90,000Rp;
6pm-midnight) Enjoy authentic Italian cuisine
at tables inside or out. The menu changes
often but always features fresh pasta, grilled
meats and seafood. Service is good and this
place is justifiably popular.
731149; www.thesamayabali.com; Jl Pantai
Kaya Aya; r from US$300;
736222; cnr Jl Raya Seminyak & Jl
Dhyana Pura; dishes from 15,000Rp) Overlooking the
busy intersection, this simple place serves
spruced-up versions of traditional dishes
(point and select from the display) at little
tables with great views of the Seminyak
Made's Warung II (
) There are 24
villas at this understated beachside luxury
resort. Traditional grass roofs cover large, airy
units with the now common stark and sombre
colours contrasting with a light palette. All
have private pools, from plunge to full-on
depending on rate.
Seminyak is so spread out that you won't
be walking among the many dining choices;
rather you'll be choosing a neighbourhood
first. Note that where indicated, some restau-
rants morph into clubs as the night wears on.
Conversely, some of the places listed under
Bars & Clubs also do decent food. Think of
it as fusion fun.
731175; www.kafewarisan.com; Jl
Raya Kerobokan; set dinner menus US$25-40;
730838; Jl Pantai Kaya Aya; dishes
80,000-140,000Rp) A sleek beachside restaurant
with good views from the 2nd-floor tables
across a lovely lawn and sand to the surf. The
bar is big with sunset watchers. The menu is
a creative fusion of international fare.
Sate Bali (
Chef Nicolas Tourneville gives fine French
cooking a Mediterranean flair at one of Bali's
finest restaurants. The tranquil setting looks
out over rice paddies and the changing menu
reflects what's in season locally - considering
the quality, meals are fine value.
732130; Jl Raya Seminyak; dishes
18,000-90,000Rp) This northern branch of the
Kuta stand-by is set in a sheltered courtyard
area. Well-prepared Indonesian food has al-
ways been the speciality here and there's a
myriad of little touches that make it special.
Shops line the periphery.
736734; Jl Oberoi 22; meals 195,000Rp;
11am-10pm) Some very fine traditional Bal-
inese meals are served at this small but artful
café run by chef Nyoman Sudiyasa. Prepare
for an array of dozens of small plates of
exquisite food. Service is sublime.
Ku De Ta (
Bali Deli (
) Almost at Jl
Sunset, the lavish deli counter at this upscale
market is loaded with imported cheeses, meats
and baked goods. This is the place to get food
from home. The cute café has wi-fi.
Bintang Supermarket (
738686; Jl Kunti 117X;
Saddled by some with the unimaginative
name 'Eat St', this restaurant row has scores
of choices. Many use the newer name Jl Laks-
mana or Jl Pantai Kaya Aya further north.
Warung Murah (Jl Oberoi; dishes 5000-15,000Rp)
Amidst the Jl Oberoi glitz, this simple, local
place displays bowls and platters of fresh food
at excellent prices. Enjoy a fried banana on the
folding chairs out front.
736969; Jl Oberoi; dishes 140,000-220,000Rp;
7am-1pm) Ku De Ta heaves with Bali's beauti-
ful. Kids play in the stylish pool and enjoy free
balloons while adults perfect their 'bored' look
over drinks. Everyone ponders the gorgeous
sunsets over the beach. The menu is a creative
fusion mix; security is fairly tight.
Jl Dhyana Pura
Jef Burgers (
730552; Jl Raya Seminyak 17;
) Always busy, this large store has a super-
market with good prices and sells all manner of
other goods. There's wi-fi at the café in front.
Bars & Clubs
Jl Dhyana Pura boasts a line-up of trendy
clubs that seem to change as often as, well,
trends. Most cater to a mixed gay and straight
crowd and a few favour the former. Note that
where indicated, some of the places do good
food in the evening, while some of the places
listed under Eating also do music.
081-7473 4311; Jl Dhyana Pura 24; dishes
24hr) Like a downscale lunch
counter, Jefs cooks up highly customisable
burgers around the clock.
Zula Vegetarian Paradise (
732723; Jl Dhyana Pura
Seminyak Night Market (Jl Sunset; dishes from 2000Rp;
8-4am) It's all vegetarian
at this cute little place where you can get tofu
cheese, a tofu spring roll, tofu cheesecake, not
to mention a tofu-chickpea burger.
Santa Fe Bar & Grill (
5; dishes 15,000-40,000Rp;
731899; Jl Oberoi; dishes 15,000-40,000Rp;
) This simple open-air café has superb Ital-
ian coffee, wi-fi and cool jazz wafting from
Corner Store (
6pm-midnight) Enjoy delicious bakso (meat
balls) and soto ayam (chicken soup) from
scores of vendors. Few travellers make it to the
market's new location along Jl Sunset.
Padang Jaya (
731147; Jl Dhyana Pura 11A;
730276; Jl Laksmana 10A; dishes
7-4am) Popular pizza and
Southwest food draws people here at all hours,
especially late when there's live music (mostly
rock). Shots are popular.
7am-5pm) Seminyak's fash-
ionistas gather here most mornings (aka Tuck
Shop) to dish the gossip and breakfast from
dishes of upscale, healthy fare like organic
486432; Jl Raya Kerobokan; dishes
from 5000Rp) Join everyone else's driver at this
classic Rumah Makan place where the food
is fresh and displayed for your choosing
Warung Batavia (
739840; Jl Dhyana Pura; dishes 20,000-
80,000Rp) Fresh food from around the archi-
pelago features at this attractive restaurant.
JL DHYANA PURA
One of the joys of Jl Dhyana Pura is bouncing
from place to place all night/morning long.
Many clubs snooze until after midnight.
733253; Jl Oberoi 52; dishes 15,000-
5pm-midnight) The island food of
731641; Jl Raya Kerobokan; dishes