Hotel Kumala Pantai (Map pp96-7 ;
frangipani-lined entrance leads into these
verdant grounds. Bungalows are secluded and
have private gardens, and the 170 rooms have
private balconies. The design is restrained
compared to some of the big group-tour be-
Patra Bali Resort & Villas
Legian Beach Hotel (Map pp96-7 ;
look for the crowds. Often what's busy one
night will be quiet the next. For quick snacks
and other victuals Circle K convenience stores
are everywhere and open 24 hours. Many have
cheap, good delis.
.legianbeachbali.com; Jl Melasti; r from US$100, bungalows from
) One of
the great deals in Legian. The 88 rooms are
large with marble bathrooms that have separate
shower and tub. The three-storey blocks are set
in nicely landscaped grounds across from the
beach. The breakfast buffet is bountiful.
Puri Tantra Beach Bungalows
.kumalapantai.com; Jl Werkudara; r US$30-50;
) Thatched bungalows are set
among lovely gardens of tall coconut palms.
The 206 rooms are comfortable, with extras
like DVD players - you can see if that bootleg
movie you paid a buck for actually works. The
scenic pool area has fountains and a great view
of the ocean from the swim-up bar.
Bali Niksoma Beach Resort (Map pp96-7 ;
The beachfront hotels all have restaurants. In
most cases the best feature for non-guests is
the beachside cafés, good for a tropical snack
or a sunset drink.
The Discovery Shopping Mall (Map p103; Jl Kartika
www.patra-jasa.com; Jl Ir H Juanada; r from US$90, villas from
(Map p103 ;
) Just beyond the south end
of Tuban Beach, the Patra Bali has 228 rooms
with colour and flair. The grounds and pools
are immaculate, the rooms well equipped
and the location quiet. Some villas feature
Sandi Phala (Map p103 ;
753195; firstname.lastname@example.org; Jl Padma Utara 50X;
s/d US$35/40) These six charming, traditional,
fan-only cottages are a step back in time and
make for a mellow retreat. All have outdoor
bathrooms and are right on the beach, which
is reached through a vivid red door.
Sari Beach Inn (Map pp96-7 ;
www.baliniksoma.com; Jl Padma Utara; r US$75-150, villa from
) The mannered and minimalist
style here comes right out of the pages of a
design magazine. There are two multi-level
pools, one of which seems to disappear into
the ocean and horizon. The 58 rooms are
exquisite and the villas sublime. There is a
noteworthy spa (p103).
Jayakarta Hotel (Map pp96-7 ;
above ) is home to many places to eat.
On the top floor there is a food court (meals
5000-10,000Rp) with scores of vendors selling
cheap, fresh Asian food. You can eat outside
on a balcony overlooking Kuta Beach. Near
the entrance, Bread Talk (snacks 3000-7000Rp) is a
wildly popular bakery where you grab tongs
and choose your own goodies. There are also
several trendy coffee places (and we're not
talking about the international chain joint on
level 1 that rhymes with 'pucks').
C-Line Restaurant (Map p103;
753 780; www.the-san
diphala.com; Jl Segara; ste from US$150;
) Follow your
ears down a long gang to the roar of the surf at
this great-value beachside hotel. The 21 rooms
have patios and the best have big soaking tubs.
The cute grounds boast many little statues and
All Seasons Resort (Map pp96-7 ;
.id; off Jl Padma Utara; r US$35-75;
Butlers buttle around the clock at this bou-
tique hotel on a quiet bit of Tuban Beach.
The 11 suites are done up in stark, dark
shades that contrast with the windows over-
looking the gardens. There's broadband
internet in the rooms and artistic touches
abound. The excellent Ma Joly restaurant
( opposite ) adjoins.
hotelsresorts.com; Jl Pura Bagus Taruna; r US$110-200;
The Jayakarta fronts a long and shady stretch
of beach. The palm-shaded grounds, 277 large
rooms, several pools and various restaurants
make it a favourite with mums, dads and kids.
The beach is just out the back door.
Bali Mandira Hotel (Map pp96-7 ;
.accorhotels.com/asia; Jl Padma Utara; r US$40-80;
) This Bali branch of the stylish, yet
cheap, chain has 113 compact but well-
appointed rooms set around a pool and water-
fall. All rooms have balconies and wi-fi access.
Service is as bright as the décor.
751285; Jl Kartika
Plaza 33; dishes 20,000-50,000Rp) Local art lines the
walls and bougainvillea shades the tables.
Breakfasts, pasta, Indo standards, seafood
and more are on the menu. The fruit juices
Kafe Batan Waru
Alam Kul Kul (Map pp96-7 ;
mandira.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; r US$120, cottage from US$150;
.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; r/villa US$75/250;
Alam is an older hotel that has had a thought-
ful redesign blending old and new design
cues. It offers boutique charm amidst majes-
tic, gnarled banyan trees. The 80 rooms and
villas are nicely appointed. The Jamu Spa is
on site (p103).
Mercure Kuta (Map pp96-7 ;
) Gardens filled with bird of paradise
flowers set the tone at the Bali Mandira. Cot-
tages have modern interiors, and the bath-
rooms are partly open-air. A dramatic pool
at the peak of a stone ziggurat housing a spa
offers uninterrupted ocean views.
Hotel Padma Bali (Map pp96-7 ;
A beachfront room is the goal of many. Note
that those in Tuban and north in Semin-
yak (p118) are usually right on the beach -
although Seminyak's beach is far superior.
Beachfront hotels in Kuta front busy Jl Pantai
Kuta while most of Legian's top hotels (and
some more modest ones) front a fine swath
of beach and a road closed to traffic, in effect
a long promenade.
766303; Jl Kartika
Plaza; dishes 15,000-45,000Rp) The Tuban branch of
one of Ubud's best cafés (p195) is a welcome
addition to the local scene. It's a slickified
version of a warung, albeit with excellent and
creative Asian and local fare. There's good cof-
fee, baked goods and newspapers on offer.
(Map p103 ;
are protected from the wilds of Legian at this
sprawling resort hotel. Grassy berms shel-
ter the pool and offer lovely beach views for
loungers. Many of the 405 artfully decorated
rooms have DVD players, so you can stay in.
It has a branch of the well-regarded Mandara
Spa ( p103 ).
There's a profusion of places to eat around
Kuta and Legian. Travellers and surfers cafés
with their cheap menus of Indonesian stand-
ards, sandwiches and pizza are ubiquitous.
Other forms of Asian fare can be found as
well and there are numerous places serving
fresh seafood, steaks and pasta. Places with
-asia.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; r US$90-180;
padma.com; Jl Padma; r US$130-200;
from the beach, the Mercure is a contempo-
rary five-storey hotel with 129 rooms done up
in Cubist style and featuring a lofty rooftop
pool. The rooms facing the beach have some
of Kuta's best views and feature balconies.
Hard Rock Hotel (Map pp96-7 ;
753196; Jl Se-
gara; dishes 25,000-55,000Rp) Let your toes feel the
sand at the beachside tables in this simple
Jimbaran-style seafood restaurant. It's a little
ramshackle, but the food's good.
(Map p103 ;
It's quieter here than Kuta but the action is a
short walk north along the beach, which can
get mighty small at high tide.
Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel (Map p103 ;
hotels.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; r from US$120;
Shopping Mall, Jl Kartika Plaza; dishes 20,000-60,000Rp;
Nothing is understated about the swank 400
themed rooms, which all feel like a retail op-
portunity, what with the logo everywhere . The
pool is ostentatious as well (which is a good
thing; see p102). Staff are sharp and service is
good - especially in the Megastore.
) This posh, stylish café over-
looks the surf. There's a large, umbrella-
shaded patio and sleek lounge inside.
Golden Lotus (Map p103 ;
www.discoverykartikaplaza.com; Jl Kartika Plaza; r US$90-200;
) The 312 spacious rooms at this
large resort front expansive gardens and a
gigantic swimming pool. For a real splurge,
rent one of the private villas on the beach
(units 2 to 7 are best). The Discovery Mall
next door may be a plus or a minus, depend-
752403; Jl Kartika Plaza;
) This ever-popular
Chinese restaurant is the best thing about
the otherwise humdrum Bali Dynasty Hotel.
The dining room and menu are posh Hong