Boats run 24 hours and leave about every 90
minutes; food and drink is sold on board.
Anyone who carries your luggage on or
off the ferries at both ports will expect to be
paid, so agree on the price first or carry your
own stuff. Also, watch out for scams where
the porter may try to sell you a ticket you've
already bought. Lembar is worse for this.
Perama (Padangbai %
(or sometimes even two), it will probably be
cheaper to charter a vehicle, however.
Perama (www.peramatour.com) has a near
monopoly on this service in Bali. It has of-
fices or agents in Kuta, Sanur, Ubud, Lovina,
Padangbai and Candidasa. At least one bus a
day links these Bali tourist centres with more
frequent services to the airport. There are also
services to Kitimani and along the east coast
from Lovina to/from Candidasa via Amed
Fares are reasonable (for example Kuta to
Lovina is 70,000Rp). Be sure to book your
trip at least a day ahead in order to confirm
schedules. It is also important to understand
where Perama buses will pick you up and
drop you off as you may need to pay an extra
5000Rp to get to/from your hotel.
Note that shuttle buses often do not pro-
vide a direct service - those from Kuta to
Candidasa may stop en route at Sanur, Ubud
and Padangbai, and maybe other towns on
Perama also operates on Lombok. Cur-
rently, this service only links Mataram (p286)
with Kuta, Senggigi (p293), Bangsal (p311)
and Tetebatu (p317) - so you can't travel
from Kuta to Bangsal without changing in
Mataram, but you can normally connect on
the same day. From Senggigi, there are also
shuttle boats to the Gili Islands (p299).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Renting a car or motorcycle can open up Bali
and Lombok for exploration and can also
leave you counting the minutes until you
return it. It gives you the freedom to explore
the myriad of back roads and lets you set your
own schedule. Most people don't rent a car for
their entire visit but rather get one for a few
days of wandering. In Bali it is common to get
a car in the south or Ubud and circumnavigate
at least part of the island.
See Road Conditions (p351) for details of
the at times harrowing driving conditions
on the islands.
BALI ROAD DISTANCES (KM)
0363-41419; Café Dona, Jl Pelabu-
has a 40-passenger boat that takes about four
hours to travel from Padangbai to Senggigi
(200,00Rp; departs 9am, returns 1.30pm),
where you can get another boat to the Gilis.
Snacks are sold on board.
Distances in Bali and on Lombok are rela-
tively short so you won't have cause to ride
many large buses unless you are transferring
between islands or going from one side to
another. Note that bemo are usually minibuses
seating about 12 in cramped uncomfort.
7am-8pm; Senggigi %
Larger minibuses and full-size buses ply the
longer routes, particularly on routes linking
Denpasar, Singaraja, and Gilimanuk. They
operate out of the same terminals as the bemo.
Buses are faster than bemo because they do
not make as many stops along the way.
arrive you will see a mobbed main hall filled
with confusion. However step around to a
side entrance and look for the sign reading
'Foreigner License Applicant.' Here you will
find cheery English-speaking officials who
for a sum of 200,000Rp will take your picture,
give you the required written test (in English,
answers available) and see that you are ready
to ride in under two hours. Sure it costs more
than in the hall of chaos, but who can argue
with the service? Just be sure to bring your
passport and a photocopy of same.
If you have a motorcycle licence at home, get
your IDP endorsed for motorcycles too.
If you have an IDP endorsed for motor-
cycles you will have no problems. If not, you
should obtain a local licence, which is valid for
one month in Bali only. It's not worth getting
a motorcycle licence for a day or two - rent or
charter a car or minibus instead.
The person renting the bike may not check
your licence or IDP, and the cop who stops
you may be happy with a nonendorsed IDP or
bribe. You might get away without a motorcycle
endorsement, but you must have an IDP. Offi-
cially there's a two million rupiah fine for riding
without a proper licence, and the motorcycle
can be impounded - unofficially, the cop may
expect a substantial 'on-the-spot' payment. If
you have an accident without a licence, your
insurance company might refuse coverage.
To get a local motorcycle licence in Bali,
go independently (or have the rental agency/
Buses and bemo of various sizes are the cheap-
est and most common way of getting around
Lombok. On rough roads in remote areas,
trucks may be used as public transport. Man-
dalika is the main bus terminal for all of Lom-
bok. There are also regional terminals at Praya
and Pancor (near Selong). You may have to go
via one or more of these transport hubs to get
from one part of Lombok to another.
Public transport fares are fixed by the
provincial government, and displayed on a
noticeboard outside the terminal office of
Mandalika terminal. You may have to pay
more if you have a large bag or surfboard.
Fuel & Spare Parts
Bensin ( petrol) is sold by the government-
owned Pertamina company, and currently
costs about 5000Rp per litre. Bali has numer-
ous petrol stations but there are gaps in their
coverage notably along the east coast north of
Amlapura and in the mountains. In that case,
look for the little roadside fuel shops that fill
your tank from a plastic container. It's the
If you plan to drive a car, you must have an
International Driving Permit (IDP). It's easy
to obtain one from your national motoring
Tourist Shuttle Bus
Shuttle buses are quicker, more comfortable