Information & Activities
The staff at the Rinjani Information Centre (RIC;
h 6am-6pm) are well informed about the area
and offer treks such as a not-too-demanding
four-hour Village Walk (100,000Rp, minimum 2 people) .
The more strenuous Wildflower Walk (per person
560,000Rp for 2 people incl a guide, porters, meals and all
camping gear) is a delightful two-day trek inside
the national park past flowery grasslands; it
costs less if there are more of you.
The RIC has also helped local women to
revive traditional weaving in Sembalun La-
wang. Follow the signs from the village centre
to their workshops.
Sleeping & Eating
Sembalun Lawang is a more expensive place
to stay than Senaru or Batu Koq, but the vistas
are more impressive.
Bale Galeng (s/d with shared bathroom 30,000/45,000Rp)
These basic, serviceable lumbung cottages are
set in a rambling garden rich with scrubs and
medicinal herbs. About 1km from the RIC.
Maria Guesthouse (r 50,000Rp) Try this homestay
with two basic rooms; rates include breakfast
Losman Lembah Rinjani ( % 0818 0362 0918; s/d with
shared bathroom 60,000/80,000Rp, s/d 130,000/160,000Rp)
Head down a side road near the RIC to find
this well-run place, the cheaper rooms have
less impressive volcano views. There's a res-
taurant on site (dishes 8000Rp to 14,000Rp).
Sembalun Nauli ( % 0818 362 040; sembalunnauli@
lycos.com; r 120,000Rp) These smart, spacious
rooms, with wonderful Rinjani views, are 3km
before Sembalun Lawang on the road from
Banyan. There's good local food here (dishes
6000Rp to 17,000Rp).
Getting There & Away
From Mandalika bus terminal take a bus to
Aikmel (8000Rp) and change there for Sem-
balun Lawang (9000Rp). Hourly pick-ups
connect Lawang and Bumbung.
There's no public transport between Sem-
balun Lawang and Senaru, you'll have to char-
ter an ojek , or a bemo for around 100,000Rp.
Roads to Sembalun are sometimes closed in
the wet season due to landslides.
brick tobacco-drying buildings, loom above
the beautifully lush landscape, and 'baccy can
be bought in blocks in the market.
Between Swela and Sapit, a side road leads to
Taman Lemor (admission 3000Rp; h 8am-4pm) , a park
with a refreshing spring-fed swimming pool
and some pesky monkeys. Further towards
Pringgabaya, Makam Selaparang is the burial
place of ancient Selaparang kings.
You can also visit hot-water springs and
small waterfalls near Sapit. Ask either home-
stay for directions.
Sleeping & Eating
Hati Suci Homestay ( % 0818 545 655; www.hatisuci.tk;
s 40,000-45,000Rp, d 75,000-85,000Rp) An efficiently
run place with excellent budget bungalows
with en-suite bathrooms set in a blossoming
garden. The accommodation and restaurant
(dishes 8000Rp to 18,000Rp) both offer stun-
ning views over the sea to Sumbawa. Break-
fast is included and hikes to Rinjani can be
Balelangga Bed & Breakfast ( % 22197; s/d with
shared bathroom 30,000/50,000Rp) Under the same
management, this place has simpler rooms
and good home cooking (dishes 6000Rp to
18,000Rp). It's sometimes closed in the low
Getting There & Away
To reach Sapit from Mataram or Central
Lombok first head to Pringgabaya, which
has frequent bemo connections to Sapit. Oc-
casional bemo also go to Sapit from the Sem-
balun valley in the north.
To Bayan (4km)
To Kali Putih
Pada Balong Shelter
To Tetebatu (12km) &
To Sapit (6km)
shaped lake, Danau Segara Anak (Child of the
Sea), which is about 6km across at its widest
point. The crater has a series of natural hot
springs known as Aiq Kalak, whose waters
locals take to blend with herbs to make medici-
nal treatments, particularly for skin diseases.
The lake is 600m below the crater rim, and
rising from its waters is a minor, newer cone,
Gunung Baru (or Gunung Barujari), which
only emerged a couple of hundred years ago.
This ominously grey, highly active scarred
peak erupted as recently as October 2004.
Both the Balinese and Sasaks revere Rinjani.
To the Balinese, it is equal to Gunung Agung
(p219), a seat of the gods, and many Balinese
make an annual pilgrimage here. In a cer-
emony called pekelan , people throw jewellery
into the lake and make offerings to the spirit of
the mountain. Some Sasaks make several pil-
grimages a year - full moon is their favourite
time for paying respect to the mountain and
for curing ailments by bathing in Aiq Kalak.
Rinjani is particularly revered by the Wektu
Telu (see the boxed text, p316) for whom the
mountain has immense spiritual power.
The trek to the crater lake is not to be taken
lightly and should only be undertaken as part
of an organised trek due to the active status of
Gunung Baru and, sadly, because there have
been (very) occasional attacks on hikers (see
left). Climbing Rinjani during the wet season
(November to March), when the tracks are
often treacherously slippy and there's a real
risk of landslides, is not at all advisable - the
Soaring over northern Lombok, the mighty
Rinjani volcano is of immense cultural (and
climatic) importance for Lombok's people,
while climbing the peak is one of Indone-
sia's most exhilarating experiences. The great
cone, which reaches 3726m, and its upper
slopes were declared a national park in 1997.
Thousands of pilgrims, for whom Rinjani is a
sacred mountain, venture up to its crater lake
and place offerings in the waters, bathe in the
hot springs here and pay respects to Rinjani
GUNUNG RINJANI SECURITY
There were incidents of armed robbery
on Rinjani in 2000, though we have not
received reports of any further incidents
until another attack in July 2005. While this
seems to have been an isolated incident, it's
best to check safety advice locally before