showers and Western toilets. There's park-
ing and a good restaurant (dishes 7000Rp to
Pondok Senaru & Restaurant ( % 622868, 0868 1210
4141; r 150,000-300,000Rp) Well set-up place 4km
from Bayan offering great easterly views of
the valley from its recommended restaurant
(dishes 11,000Rp to 21,000Rp) and spacious,
spotless rooms - a little overpriced but the
most comfortable digs in town. The superior
rooms have TV, minibar and hot showers.
Also worth considering:
Rinjani Homestay ( % 0817 5750 889; s/d
35,000/40,000Rp) A little further uphill it has plain clean
rooms and a restaurant with Western and Indonesian
dishes (7000Rp to 25,000Rp). Bale Bayan ( % 0817 5792
943; r 40,000Rp) Opposite Dusun Senaru village, this place
has rustic bungalows and a restaurant in a nice garden.
Pondok Segara Anak ( % 0817 5754 551; r 40,000Rp)
Panoramic views and neat, clean good-value rooms. It's
3km from Bayak.
INFORMATION & ORIENTATION
Rinjani Trek Centre (RTC; % satellite 0868 1210 4132;
www.info2lombok.com) , at the southern end of the
village, has good information on Rinjani and
the surrounding area.
The two villages are spread out along a sin-
gle steep road which heads south to Rinjani.
Batu Koq is about 3km south from Bayan,
Senaru is a further 3km uphill.
To Bayan (3km)
B A L I S E A
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Definitely visit Air Terjun Sindang Gila (2000Rp) ,
a spectacular set of falls 20 minutes' walk
from Senaru. The walk is partly through forest
and partly alongside an irrigation canal that
follows the contour of the hill, occasionally
disappearing into tunnels where the cliffs
are too steep.
A further 50 minutes or so up the hill is Air
Terjun Tiu Kelep, another waterfall, where
you can go swimming. The track is steep and
tough at times, so it's a good idea to take a
Six kilometres south of Bayan is the tradi-
tional village of Dusun Senaru where locals
will invite you to chew betel nut (or tobacco)
and show you around.
Community tourism activities can be ar-
ranged in most guesthouses - they include a
rice terraces and waterfalls walk (35,000Rp),
which takes in Sindang Gila, some stunning
vistas and a bemo ride back; and the Senaru
Panorama Walk (45,000Rp), which is led by
female guides and incorporates information
about local lifestyles.
To recuperate, head to Emy Café (p313) for
a posthike massage (25,000Rp).
To Mataram (39km);
Rinjani Trek Centre (RTC)..............
Bukit Senaru Cottages....................
Pondok Indah & Restaurant............
Head to Emy Café (dishes 5000-12,500Rp) or Galang Ijo
(dishes 5000-8000Rp) both midway between Batu
Koq and Senaru for simple food and some
Pondok Segara Anak......................
Pondok Senaru & Restaurant.........
GETTING THERE & AWAY
From Mandalika terminal in Mataram catch
a bus to Anyar (12,500Rp, 2½ hours). Bemo
leave Anyar for Senaru (4000Rp) about every
20 minutes until 4.30pm. If you're coming
from, or going to, eastern Lombok, get off
at the junction near Bayan (your driver will
know it), from where bemo go to Senaru.
with sunken bathtubs. There's a fine spa
and good sports facilities, including tennis
courts, though beware the restaurant prices -
a sandwich is 100,000Rp (plus tax).
Close by, signposted from the road south
to Bangsal, the Lombok Golf Kosaido Country Club
( % 640137; per round incl caddy & cart US$80) is an at-
tractive 18-hole, 72-par course by the sea, laid
with Bermuda grass. Hole 9 faces the waters of
Sira Bay, while holes 10 to18 have great views
of Rinjani. Manta Dive on Gili Trawangan can
organise discounted rates here.
Gondang & Around
Just northeast of Gondang village, a 6km trail
heads inland to Air Terjun Tiu Pupas , a 30m wa-
terfall that's only really impressive in the wet
season. Trails continue from here to other
waterfalls including Air Terjun Gangga , the most
beautiful of all. A guide is useful to navigate
the confusing trails in these parts - speak to
the owners of the Pondok Pantai ( % 0812 375 2632;
beachside setting that serves up blood-red
sunsets. It's 2km north of Gondang.
This northernmost part of Lombok is the
birthplace of the Wektu Telu religion (p316),
and also has some venerable mosques. One
very fine example, Masjid Kuno Bayan Beleq ,
close to village of Laloan, is one of the old-
est on Lombok, reputedly dating from 1634.
Built on a square platform of river stones the
structure has a pagoda-like upper section and
inside there's a huge old drum. Access to the
interior of the mosque is not permitted, and
the structure is not actively used for worship.
You may be asked to sign a visitor's book and
make a donation for the mosque's upkeep.
Senaru & Batu Koq
These picturesque villages, merging into each
other along a ridge with sweeping views to the
east and south, are the main starting points for
THE SEMBALUN VALLEY
High on the eastern side of Gunung Rinjani is
the beautiful Sembalun Valley, whose inhabit-
ants descend from the Hindu Javanese. The
two main settlements are Sembalun Lawang
and Sembalun Bumbung. The former is a
popular starting point for treks up Gunung
Rinjani. The statue of an enormous garlic bulb
in the village is indicative of the area's main
crop, which is harvested in October.
Sembalun Bumbung, 3km south of Sem-
balun Lawang and just off the main road,
is a sprawling and relatively wealthy village.
It's often referred to simply as Sembalun;
SLEEPING & EATING
Some comfortable rooms have been
built recently, but most of the dozen los-
men here have basic rooms and shared
cold-water mandi. As the climate's cooler,
you won't need fans. All these places are
dotted along the road from Bayan to Senaru.
Bukit Senaru Cottages (r 40,000Rp) Shortly be-
fore Dusan Senaru, this place has four well-
constructed semidetached bungalows with
verandas and bathrooms with Western toilets
overlooking a leafy garden.
Pondok Indah & Restaurant ( % 081 7578 8018;