Lombok - Bali and Lombok - page 142

UNDERWATER GILIS
The Gili Islands are a terrific dive destination. Though coral life above 18m is not generally in
good condition - years of fish bombing and the El Niño phenomenon, which caused 'heatstroke'
damage to the temperature-sensitive reefs back in the 1990s, have taken their toll - you'll find
marine life is plentiful and varied. Turtles and black- and white-tip reef sharks are common, and
the macro life (small stuff ) is excellent with seahorses, pipefish and lots of crustaceans. Around
full moon, large schools of bumphead parrot fish appear to feast on coral spawns, while at other
times of the year manta rays glide by dive sites.
Safety standards are high in the Gilis despite the modest dive costs - there are no dodgy dive
schools, and instructors and training are professional. Rates are fixed (no matter who you dive
with) at US$25 a dive, with discounts for a package of 10 dives. A PADI Open Water course costs
US$300, the Advanced course is US$225, Divemaster starts at US$650, and Nitrox and Trimex dives
are offered by some schools. For contact details of dive schools, see individual island entries.
The Gili Eco Trust, a partnership between dive operators and the local community, aims to
improve the condition of the reefs. All divers help fund the trust by paying a one-off fee of
30,000Rp with their first dive. Another initiative has seen the establishment of several reef growth
accelerators, called Biorock . They use electrical currents to stimulate coral development. Two
Biorock installations are located directly opposite the Vila Ombak hotel on Gili Trawangan at a
depth of 8m. For more information, consult www.biorock.net.
Surrounded by coral reefs and with easy beach access, the Gilis are superb for snorkelling too.
Masks, snorkels and fins can be hired for as little as 20,000Rp per day. On Trawangan, try snorkelling
the area right off the beach where turtles are often seen. Around Gili Meno, the pier by the (closed)
Bounty resort has prolific marine life, while over on Air the walls off the east coast are good.
Some of the best dive sites include the following:
Deep Halik The canyon-like profile of this site is ideally suited to drift diving. Black- and white-tip sharks can
often be seen at 28m to 30m.
Deep Turbo At around 30m, this site is ideally suited to Nitrox diving. It has impressive sea fans and catches the
prevailing currents so anything can come out of the big blue (including, very occasionally, mantas or even whale sharks).
Hans Reef Off the northeast coast of Gili Air, this reef is great for macro life including frogfish, ghostfish, seahorses
and pipefish.
Japanese Wreck For experienced divers only (as it lies at 45m) this shipwreck of a Japanese patrol boat is
another site ideal for Nitrox divers. Prolific soft coral, lots of nudibranches - look out for lionfish and frogfish.
Shark Point Perhaps the most exhilarating dive in the Gilis: reef sharks and turtles are very regularly encountered,
as well as schools of bumphead parrotfish and mantas. Look out too for cuttlefish and octopi. At shallow depths
there can be a strong surge.
Simon's Reef The reef here is in excellent condition; you can see schools of trevally, and occasionally, great bar-
racuda and leopard sharks.
Sunset (Manta Point) The sloping profile of the reef here has good coral growth below 18m, including some
impressive table coral. Large pelagics are frequently encountered and strong currents are rarely an issue.

MANDI SAFAR
Many of Trawangan's locals do not visit the island's beach frequently, partly because many cannot
swim and have no interest in sunbathing, but also because Sasak Muslim attitudes towards mod-
esty mean that most prefer to avoid seeing half-naked Western bodies roasting in the sun.
But in an annual ceremony held at the end of the second month of the Islamic calendar, a
ritual purification, Safar, takes place as hundreds of villagers enjoy a day on the beach and take
a dip in the ocean in a tradition said to symbolise the last bath of the Prophet Muhammad.
The ceremony begins with the construction of a pondok pisang (banana house), a square struc-
ture which is loaded with fruit. Drumming, seated dancing and reading from the Koran follows.
Prayers are then written on mango leaves before the participants take to the sea, taking their
prayers with them.
Later everyone returns to shore to pin up the prayer leaves beside a local well (it's believed
this action will maintain the well's water purity) and munch on the fruit from the pondok pisang .
Later, everyone tucks into a huge rice-table-style buffet donated by Trawangan's restaurants.
Anyone is welcome to attend the event, but make sure you're well covered so as not to of-
fend local customs.

further out from the shoreline. The reef is in
better shape close to the lighthouse off the
northwest coast, but you'll have to scramble
over some low coral to access it.
Snorkelling gear can be hired for around
20,000Rp per day from shacks near the jetty.

is the area north of the jetty, where you can
stumble out of your bungalow and flop on the
beach, neutralising those (perhaps inevitable)
hangovers with a morning dip.
In all but the most expensive places, the tap
water is quite saline. Rates quoted are high-
season prices, they drop about 30% off-peak.
Breakfast is included unless stated otherwise. SURFING & WATER SPORTS

Trawangan has a fast right-hand wave that
breaks over a coral outcrop that is not sharp.
It's best at high tide and can be surfed all
year long. You'll find it just south of Vila
Ombak.
Fun Ferrari ( % 0812 3756 138; Horizontal; watersports
per 15min incl tuition 150,000Rp, fishing per person US$50)
offers water-skiing, parasailing, wakeboarding
and sports fishing.

BUDGET
Main Strip
Pak Majid (r 60,000Rp) In the thick of the action,
this place has clean concrete bungalows with
plain furnishings. Breakfast is not included.
Creatif Satu ( % 634861; r with fan/air-con
75,000/125,000Rp; a ) Close to the jetty, the large
rooms here are clean and quite acceptable.
Trawangan Cottages ( % 623582; r without/with
air-con 100,000/140,000Rp; a ) Well-kept rooms
with private bathrooms and verandas with
nice seating.

WALKING & CYCLING
Trawangan is perfect for exploring on foot or
by bike. You can walk around the whole island
in a couple of hours - if you finish at the hill
on the southwestern corner (which has the
remains of an old Japanese gun placement)
at sunset you'll have terrific views of Bali's
Gunung Agung.
Bikes can be hired from 15,000Rp a day
from just south of the jetty.
Sleeping
There are approaching a hundred places to
stay in Gili T, from simple beach huts to air-

Village
If the following places are full you'll find a
dozen or so comparable alternatives in the
village.
Pandian Wangi Cottages (s/d 40,000/75,000Rp)
Friendly place with simple clean rooms with
fans and mozzie nets.
Pondok Sederhana ( % 0813 3860 9964; r 60,000Rp)
Run by a house-proud and friendly Balinese
lady, the spotless rooms here face a neat lit-

Activities
DIVING
Trawangan is a veritable diver's delight with
seven established scuba schools, no cowboy
outfits and inexpensive prices (see the boxed
text, above )
Big Bubble ( % 625020; www.bigbubblediving.com)
Blue Marlin Dive Centre ( % 632424; www.dive
indo.com)

Trawangan Diving ( % 649220; www.trawanga
dive.com)
Villa Ombak Diving Academy ( % 638531;
[e-mail])

BOAT TRIPS & SNORKELLING
Glass-bottomed boat trips (40,000Rp per
person, including snorkelling equipment) to
coral reefs can be booked at many stores on