West Bali - Bali and Lombok - page 126

SOUTH OF TABANAN
Driving in the southern part of Tabanan dis-
trict takes you though many charming villages
and past a lot of vigorously growing rice.
Just south of Tabanan, Kediri has Pasar
Hewan, one of Bali's busiest cattle markets.
About 10km south of Tabanan is Pejaten , a
centre for the production of traditional pot-
tery, including elaborate ornamental roof tiles.
Porcelain clay objects, which are made purely
for decorative use, can be seen in a few work-
shops in the village. Check out the small show-
room of CV Keramik Pejaten (

are decorated with carved teak and unrestored
antiques. Balinese feasts and dancing can be ar-
ranged. Even if you're not shacking up with the
prince, the compound makes for a good stop.
Waka Gangga

best view). Meditate upon the hotel's motto:
'A conscious resort' and wonder about the
alternative.
Gajah Mina

Along the main road, a large sign points
down the paved road (200m) to the surfing
mecca of Pantai Medewi. The 'beach' is a
stretch of huge, smooth grey rocks inter-
spersed among round black pebbles. Think
of it as a reflexology course. It's a placid place
where cattle graze by the beach. Medewi is
noted not for its beach but for its long left-
hand wave - and there is little else here.

081-23811630; www.gajahminare
sort.com; ste from US$85;

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) Designed by the
French architect-owner, the ocean is close to
this eight-suite boutique hotel. The stylishly
furnished bungalows all have outdoor and
indoor bathrooms, and addictive loungers on
the balcony. The turn-off from the main road
is near the village market and there is a gate
where 1000Rp is collected before you make
the scenic 1km-drive.
JEMBRANA COAST
About 34km west of Tabanan you cross into
Bali's most sparsely populated district, Jem-
brana. The main road follows the south coast
most of the way to Negara. There's some beau-
tiful scenery, but little tourist development
along the way, with the exception of the surf
break action at Medewi.

0361-416257; www.wakagangga
.com; Yeh Gangga; r from US$100;

(

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) Ten circu-
lar bungalows with views in three directions
are scattered about rice fields at this remote
boutique resort. The beach is out front, the
design is rustic yet elegant and the trappings
luxurious.
NORTH OF TABANAN
The area north of Tabanan is good to travel
around with your own transport. There are
some strictly B-level attractions; the real appeal
here is just driving the fecund back roads.
Yet another monkey forest, Alas Kedaton
(adult/child 5000/2500Rp;

as

SLEEPING & EATING
Some places for the Medewi surf break are
right on the one main lane. Others are along
the coast to the east and west. For a casual
meal, some of the finest fare is freshly stir-fried
and served up at a cart right by the beach.
Homestay CSB (Pulukan; r 70,000Rp) Some 2km east
of the Medewi surf break at Pulukan, Homestay,
signposted from the highway on the ocean side,
has nice bungalows with rice-paddy views and
sea views in the near distance.
Gede Bungalow (

831997) , which is
a prominent local producer. The trademark
pale-green pieces are lovely and when you see
the prices, you'll at least buy a frog.
A little west of Tabanan, a road goes 8km
south via Gubug to the secluded coast at Yeh
Gangga , where there's some good accommo-
dation choices and Island Horse (

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7.30am-6.30pm) is a stop-
off on many organised tours. Your ticket in-
cludes a guide, who may do little more than
fend off avaricious monkeys and lead you to
a cousin's carved-stick shop nearby.
About 9km north of Tabanan the road
reaches a fork. The left road goes to Pura
Luhur Batukau, via the hot springs at Pena-
tahan. Here you'll find the simple Yeh Panas
Resort

h

0361-730218;
www.baliislandhorse.com; rides from US$50) , which offers
horse rides along the long flat beach.
The next road west from Tabanan turns
down to the coast via Kerambitan , a village
noted for its beautiful old buildings (includ-
ing two 17th-century palaces); a tradition
of wayang -style painting; and its own styles
of music and dance, especially tektekan, a
ceremonial procession.
South of Kerambitan, you will pass through
Penarukan , known for its stone- and wood-
carvers, and also its dancers. Continue to the
coast, where you'll find the beach at Kelating
wide, black and usually deserted.
About 4km from southern Kerambitan is
Tibubiyu . For a gorgeous drive through huge
bamboo, fruit trees, rice paddies and more,
take the scenic road northwest from Keram-
bitan to the main road.

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081-23976668; Pulukan; r 70,000Rp)
Only 100m from the beach, Gede Bungalow
has rice-barn style cottages set amid rice pad-
dies. To reach it, go past Homestay CSBabove
and take the first right. It's the first building
on the left.
Mai Malu Restaurant & Guesthouse

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Medewi
% 0365
The surf scene at Medewi is centred on one
short lane from the road down to the waves.
There are a couple of places aimed at surfers
(and their parents) and not much else.

0361-262356; [e-mail]; r
from 250,000Rp;

( 43897;

s/d 60,000/80,000Rp) Near the highway on the

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) , 4km from the fork, by the
Sungai Yeh Ho (Yeh Ho River). The resort has
a small, cool pool, which nonguests can soak
in for 30,000Rp. Another pool has water from
the hot springs and costs 150,000Rp. Rooms
are set on the hillside and overlook the river.
LALANG-LINGGAH
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At Antosari, the main road takes a sharp turn
south to the welcoming breezes of the ocean.
The first town you encounter continuing west
another 10km is Lalang-Linggah. Here a road
leads to the surf breaks near the mouth of
Sungai Balian (Balian River). The entire area
has deep spiritual significance and caves along
the river are the scene of ceremonies.

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SCENIC ROUTES TO THE NORTH COAST
You can cross between Bali's south and north coasts via Pupuan , well west of the two main
cross-island routes (via Kintamani and Bedugul in the central mountains). From the Denpasar-
Gilimanuk road, one road goes north from Antosari and another road goes north from
Pulukan ; the two roads meet at Pupuan then drop down to Seririt, west of Lovina.
The road from Antosari starts through rice paddies, climbs into the fragrant spice-growing
country via Sanda and then descends through the coffee plantations to Pupuan. From Pupuan,
if you continue 12km or so towards the north coast you reach Mayong, where you can turn east
to Munduk and on to Danau Bratan.
The Pulukan-Pupuan road climbs steeply up from the coast providing fine views back down
to the sea. The route also runs through spice-growing country - you'll see (and smell) spices
laid out on mats by the road to dry. After about 10km and just before Manggissari, the narrow
and winding road actually runs right through Bunut Bolong - an enormous tree that forms a
complete tunnel (the bunut is a type of ficus; bolong means 'hole').
Further on, the road spirals down to Pupuan through some of Bali's most beautiful rice
terraces.
It is worth stopping off for a walk to the magnificent waterfalls near Pujungan, a few kilometres
south of Pupuan. Follow signs down a narrow, rough road and then walk 1.5km to the first waterfall,
it's nice but before you say 'is that all there is?' follow your ears to a second that's 50m high.
Wind up the exhilarating day with a stay at Sanda Bukit Villas & Restaurant (

Sleeping
Bali Wisata Bungalows ( 0361-7443561; www.bali

wisatabungalows.com; Yeh Gangga; bungalows 180,000-
350,000Rp;

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) West of Tabanan and on the
coast at Yeh Gangga, this attractive accommo-
dation has excellent views in a superb setting
on 15km of black-sand beach. The ocean-view
rooms are definitely worth it.
Puri Anyar Kerambitan

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Sleeping & Eating
You'll find warung scattered about the area
with both funky and swank accommodation.
Sacred River Retreat (

0361-812668; wiryana
[e-mail]; r from 250,000Rp) One of Keram-
bitan's two palaces accepts guest bookings in

(

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814993; www.sacred-river
.com; r US$40-60) Just east of town, Sacred River
Retreat is a new-agey place with suitably hip-

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0828 369 137;