given the name, is a hang-out for dolphin
Warung Bias (
Poco Evolution Bar (
troupes as well as Legong and bull races (see
p278 ) other days.
Singaraja to Anturan
Puri Bagus (
41535; Jl Bina Ria; dishes
11am-1am) At various times
movies are shown and cover bands perform
at this popular bar-café. Classic travellers'
fare is served.
Sea Breeze Café (
21430; www.lovina.puribagus.net; villa US$95-
411692; Jl Pantai Banyualit; dishes
Shops on the main streets of Kalibukbuk sell a
range of souvenirs, sundries and groceries.
Benny Tantra's T-Shirts (Jl Raya Lovina) For some-
thing different, check out the amusing range
of T-shirts and postcards, portraying to an un-
canny degree the life of a tourist in Lovina.
) Well off the main road, Puri Bagus
has 40 private villas set on immaculate grounds
along a stone beach. The stylish units have
large bathrooms with outdoor showers and nice
verandas for enjoying the tropical views and
thatched roofs. The pool is large and free-form
and the hotel is surrounded by rice paddies.
4.30-9pm) Worth a trip, Bias
serves homemade baked goods, as well as
Indian curries, European dishes like wiener
schnitzel, pastas and pizzas. It's in a simple
open-air setting surrounded by a carp pond.
41138; dishes 12,000-45,000Rp)
Right by the beach off Jl Bina Ria and blessed
with sweeping views, this cafe has a range
of Indonesian and Western dishes and
good breakfasts. It's a good spot for sunset
Tropis Club (
41134; Jl Pantai; dishes 20,000-50,000Rp;
11am-4pm) A real comer in the lunch depart-
ment, Spunky's serves Indo classics right on
the beach. Take a dip, take a drink.
Getting There & Away
BUS & BEMO
To reach Lovina from South Bali by public
transport, you'll need to change in Singaraja
(see p257). Regular blue bemo go from Sin-
garaja's Banyuasri terminal to Kalibukbuk
(about 6000Rp) - you can flag them down
anywhere on the main road.
If you are coming by long-distance bus
from the west you can ask to be dropped off
anywhere along the main road.
Anturan to Kalibukbuk
42090; Jl Ketepang; dishes 15,000-
30,000Rp) The long menu at this beachside place
includes wood-fired pizza which may not
transport you to Italy, but may get you as far
as Oman. It's an attractive place with a soaring
roof and good sunset views.
Jasmine Kitchen (
41775; www.sunari.com; r US$85-130, villas
) Off Jl Raya Lovina, the
imposing entrance to this place leads to a large
beachfront resort with redecorated rooms and
good services. Various villas come with private
plunge pools, whirlpools and ocean views.
Grounds are verdant with banana trees and a
profusion of posies.
This is ground zero for nightlife. There's a
good range of restaurants, beachside cafés, bars
where you can get a burger and maybe hear
music or fun places that defy description.
Warung Minang (
41565; Gang Binaria; dishes
15,000-30,000Rp) Enjoy excellent Thai fare in
this elegant two-level restaurant. The menu
is long and authentic and the help gracious.
While soft jazz plays, try the homemade ice
cream for dessert.
0812 393 0792; Jl Raya Lovina;
dishes 6000-8000Rp) This stylish Pedang-style café
is a find. Choose from lots of fresh dishes on
display and savour the local art on the walls.
South of Lovina
Damai Lovina Villas (
41008; www.damai.com; villa
0812 460 7791; Jl Raya Lovina; dishes 6000-
) There are views across
Lovina at this boutique hotel renowned for its
organic cuisine. It has eight luxury bungalows
furnished with beautiful fabrics and antiques.
The pool seemingly spills onto a landscape of
peanut fields, rice paddies and coconut palms.
The restaurant, on a raised pavilion fringed by
cerise bougainvillea, focuses on fusion cuisine.
Call for transport, or at the main junction in
Kalibukbuk, go south on Jl Damai and follow
the road for about 3km.
11am-2am) Funky open-air place
where you can watch traffic by day and
groove to acoustic guitar by night. There's a
long drinks list, fresh juices and coffee and a
few local snacks.
Kakatua Bar & Restaurant
TOURIST SHUTTLE BUS
Perama buses stop at its office, in front of Hotel
WEST OF KALIBUKBUK
Café Spice (
41509; dishes 24,000-45,000Rp) Part of
Spice Dive, this delightful beachside place is
right at the western end of the beach path. The
walls are covered in artwork and the menu is
interesting and good. Besides the dive vibe
you can sometimes hear the squeals of local
kids learning English at the shop's free school
41161) on Jl Raya Lovina in Anturan.
Passengers are then ferried to other points on
the Lovina strip (5000Rp).
41344; Jl Bina
Ria; dishes 7000-35,000Rp) A squawking sulphur-
crested cockatoo at the front of the restaurant
beckons you in (or tells you to get lost; who
speaks cockatoo after all?). The menu merges
Mexican, Thai, Indian and Balinese (and let's
not forget pizza) - all of which is decent.
Khi Khi Restaurant (
42031; Jl Raya Lovina; dishes 24,000-
11am-midnight) The big news in Lovina
dining is this excellent place run by the folks
behind the much-lauded Café des Artistes in
Ubud (p196). The location back from the road
has a relaxed elegance, which sets the mood
for a perusal of the long wine list (bottles from
120,000Rp). Grilled seafood tops the menu
highlighted by creative Indonesian fare. The
tuna is a treat.
Eating & Drinking
Just about every hotel has a café or restaurant.
Close to the centre of Lovina you can find sev-
eral places that go beyond the usual travellers'
establishment. Most places are good for just a
drink and some have sunset happy hours.
41548; dishes 8000-100,000Rp)
Well off Jl Raya Lovina, this barn of a place
is filled with fishy aromas. It specialises in
Chinese food and grilled seafood, including
lobster. It's always popular.
Zigiz (Jl Bina Ria; snacks from 10,000Rp;
The Lovina strip is very spread out, but you
can easily travel back and forth on bemo
(2000Rp). Bikes are easily rented around town
for about 30,000Rp per day.
WEST OF LOVINA
The main road west of Lovina passes many
interesting attractions and follows the mostly
undeveloped coast, where a few resorts and
diving centres take advantage of the secluded
beaches and coral reefs. The road continues
to the Taman Nasional Bali Barat (p280) and
the port of Gilimanuk (p283).
This small place has walls covered in artwork
and live music some nights.
Tiki Lounge & Restaurant (
Warung Bamboo (dishes 7000-30,000Rp) A small,
open-fronted place, Bamboo fronts a lively
section of beach; watch fishers prepping boats,
travellers making out (or planning to…) etc.
One of several here, it serves classic fare and
cheap beer. To find it, walk east along the
beach from the end of Jl Kubu Gembong.
41191; Jl Raya Lovina;
dishes 10,000-20,000Rp) The name lets you know
this place takes its tropical motif seriously, right
down to the bamboo detailing everywhere. The
long Indonesian menu has pictures to help you
choose, or you may just drop by for a beer.
Barcelona Bar & Restaurant (
SOUTH OF LOVINA
Damai Lovina Villas (
41008; www.damai.com; lunch
US$4-10, 5-course dinner US$40) Enjoy the renowned
restaurant at this boutique hotel (opposite).
Some of the joints on Jl Bina Raya have live
41894; Jl Ketapang;
dishes 10,000-35,000Rp) This restaurant has a shady