The top ones are just that: on top of the build-
ing and with good views.
Tauch Terminal Resort (
one of Bali's highest. Look for a large sign on
the main road and then turn inland for about
1km. Walk the last 2km or so on an obvious
path by the stream, shaded by rambutan trees.
A 2000Rp donation is requested; there's no
need for a guide.
The next main town is Tejakula , famous for
its stream-fed public bathing area, said to have
been built for washing horses, and often called
the 'horse bath'. The renovated bathing areas
(separate for men and women) are behind
walls topped by rows of elaborately decorated
arches, and are regarded as a sacred area. The
baths are 100m inland on a narrow road with
lots of small shops - it's a quaint village, with
some finely carved kulkul towers. Take a stroll
above the baths, past irrigation channels flow-
ing in all directions.
At Pacung, about 10km before Yeh Sanih,
you can turn inland 4km to Sembiran , which is
a Bali Aga village, although it doesn't promote
itself as such. The most striking thing about
the place is its hillside location and brilliant
0361-730200, 22911; www
) Down a side
road, this is the pick of Tulamben accommo-
dation. Rooms have large terraces; the cheaper
ones in bungalows are actually more atmos-
pheric and better value. The restaurant is right
at the waves with a menu that spans Europe
and Asia. Service is efficient if a tad curt.
.tauch-terminal.com; r US$40-80;
Getting There & Away
Plenty of buses and bemo travel between
Amlapura and Singaraja and will stop any-
where along the Tulamben road, but they're
infrequent after 2pm. Expect to pay 8000Rp
to either town.
Perama offers charter tourist-bus services
from Candidasa; the cost is 75,000Rp each for
a minimum of two people. This is competitive
with the cost of hiring a car and driver.
If you are driving to Lovina for the night,
be sure to leave by about 3pm so you will still
have a little light when you get there.
TULAMBEN TO YEH SANIH
North of Tulamben, the road continues to skirt
the slopes of Gunung Agung, with frequent
evidence of lava flows from the 1963 eruption.
Further around, the outer crater of Gunung
Batur slopes steeply down to the sea. The rain-
fall is low and you can generally count on sunny
weather. The scenery is very stark in the dry
season and it's thinly populated. The route has
public transport, but it's easier to make stops
and detours with your own vehicle.
At Les , a road goes inland to lovely Air Terjun
Yeh Mampeh (Yeh Mampeh Waterfall), at 40m
Alam Anda (
0361-750444; www.alamanda.de; bungalow
) Near Sambirenteng, this is
a delightful resort on the beach, with a fine
coral reef just offshore. It boasts its own diving
centre. The 10 ocean-facing bungalows are
set in a spacious garden and are built from
stone, bamboo and thatch. Designed by the
German architect owner, Alam Anda has a
lush tropical feel. The waterfront restaurant,
with dishes ranging from €3 to €8 (has daily
buffets and fresh seafood). There's also some
simple economy rooms (from €35).
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