Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Tenganan turn-off west of town, this smart café
is worth the detour. The tiny bakery specialises
in delicious pastries, cakes and croissants. You
can enjoy meals out on the veranda.
Temple Café
(
Perama
(
7am-7pm)
41114; Jl Raya Candidasa;
AMLAPURA
%
h
0
500 m
0
0.3 miles
is at the western end of the strip.
To Pharmacy (400m);
Hospital (400m)
A
B
C
D
Destination
Fare
41629; Jl Raya Candidasa; dishes
15,000-30,000Rp)
Global citizens can get a taste of
home at this café attached to the Seaside
Cottages. The menu has wraps, Vegemite,
cabbage rolls, meat pies and other mun-
dane treats. The popular bar has a long
drink list.
Toke Café
(
INFORMATION
EATING
%
Bank BRI (ATM)...........................
1
D2
Hardy's........................................
8
C2
Kuta
40,000Rp
1
Police Station...............................
2
D3
Market........................................
9
D3
Post Office...................................
3
C2
Lovina
100,000Rp
Tourist Office...............................
4
C2
TRANSPORT
Padangbai
15,000Rp
Wartel.........................................
5
D2
Bemo Terminal (for Tirta
J
l Lettu Arti
Gangga & East Coast)............
10
B3
Sanur
40,000Rp
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Bemo to Ujung..........................
11
D2
Ubud
40,000Rp
Puri Agung Karangasem..............
6
D2
Main Bus/Bemo Terminal...........
12
C2
Puri Gede.....................................
7
D2
7
Puri Kertasura............................(see 7)
6
Two or more people can charter a ride to
Amed in the far east for about 60,000Rp each.
Ask at your accommodation about vehicle
rental.
CANDIDASA TO AMLAPURA
The main road east of Candidasa curves up
to
Pura Gamang Pass
(
gamang
means 'to get
dizzy' - something of an overstatement),
from where you'll find fine views down to
the coast and lots of greedy-faced monkeys.
If you walk along the coastline from Can-
didasa towards Amlapura, a trail climbs up
over the headland, with fine views over the
rocky islets off the coast. Beyond this head-
land there's a long sweep of wide, exposed
black-sand beach.
Although Candidasa lacks good beaches,
about 5km east is
Pasir Putih
, an idyllic white-
sand beach. When you see crude signs with
either 'Virgin Beach Club' or 'Jl Pasir Puteh',
turn off the main road and follow a paved
track for about 1km to a bridge where lo-
cals will collect a fee (5000Rp). Another 1km
brings you to a small temple that has good
parking. You can drive a further 600m directly
to the beach but the road is a fiasco and the
walk instead is quite pretty.
The beach is almost a cliché: a long crescent
of white sand backed by coconut trees. At
one end cliffs provide shade; at the other is a
little line of fishing boats. At times stands sell
drinks and snacks. The surf is often mellow;
bring your own snorkelling gear to explore
the waters.
AMLAPURA
%
0363
Amlapura is the capital of Karangasem dis-
trict, and the main town and transport junc-
41991; Jl Raya Candidasa; dishes 20,000-
50,000Rp)
The open kitchen at this mellow place
turns out some good seafood. It's got a nice
old bar and is a good place for a drink or
something for the munchies.
Lotus Seaview
(
%
Jl Jelan
tik
Jl Lettu Alit
2
To Tirta
Gangga (7km)
3
8
41257; Jl Raya Candidasa; dishes
20,000-60,000Rp)
This Lotus branch is smack dab
on the ocean, just west of town. The menu has
all the classics from Italian to Indonesian.
Watergarden Café
(
%
11
4
1
12
5
9
2
41540; Jl Raya Candidasa; dishes
15,000-50,000Rp)
Overlooking a carp pond, this
stylish café somehow manages to maintain
a peaceful atmosphere amid the zooming
trucks. The food is excellent, including Asian
specialities. Its breakfasts hang low with ripe
fruit.
Kubu Bali Restaurant
(
%
10
3
Clock
Tower
Subagan
To Bebandem (6km);
Rendang (24km)
To Ujung
To Candidasa
41532; Jl Raya Candidasa;
dishes 20,000-60,000Rp)
This big place has an open
kitchen out the front (the woks drown out the
trucks), where Indonesian and Chinese dishes
- including excellent seafood - are turned
out with great energy and panache. The bar
exudes: 'gin & tonic.'
Vincent's
(
(12km)
(3km)
%
tidiest on Bali). It's worth a stop to see the
royal palaces but a lack of choice means you'll
want to spend the night elsewhere, such as
near-by Tirta Gangga.
Information
The friendly staff at the
tourist office
(
the main building, known as the Maskerdam
(Amsterdam), because it was the Karangasem
kingdom's acquiescence to Dutch rule that
allowed it to hang on long after the demise of
the other Balinese kingdoms. Inside you'll be
able to see several rooms, including the royal
bedroom and a living room with furniture
that was a gift from the Dutch royal family.
The Maskerdam faces the ornately decorated
Bale Pemandesan, which was used for the
royal tooth-filing ceremonies. Beyond this,
surrounded by a pond, is the Bale Kambang,
still used for family meetings and for dance
practice.
Across the street,
Puri Gede
(Jl Teuku Umar; admis-
sion free;
41368; Jl Raya Candidasa; dishes 25,000-
80,000Rp)
A deep and open place with several
distinct rooms and a lovely rear garden with
rattan lounge furniture. There's a plethora
of artfully prepared Thai and veggie options
but the real stars are the local dishes. It has
a refined bar.
Kedai
(
%
21196;
h
7am-3pm Mon-Thu, 7am-noon Fri)
will
snap to attention if any traveller walks in
requesting information, but it's not worth a
special stop.
Bank BRI
(Jl Gajah Mada)
will change
money. It has an international ATM as does
Hardy's
. There is a
pharmacy
(Apotik; Jl Ngurah Rai 47)
and a small hospital across the street.
Jl Diponegoro;
h
42020; Jl Raya Candidasa; mains 25,000-
%
noon-2pm, 5-9pm)
Set in a stately open-
air pavilion under a high conical thatched
roof, Kedai offers a refined dining experience.
The menu of Balinese specialties changes with
the seasons and includes many organic and
vegetarian options.
90,000Rp;
h
Sights
Amlapura's three palaces, on Jl Teuk Umar, are
decaying reminders of Karangasem's period
as a kingdom at its most important when
supported by Dutch colonial power in the late
19th and early 20th centuries.
Outside the
Puri Agung Karangasem
(Jl Teuku
8am-6pm)
has ongoing renovations.
The rambling palace grounds feature many
brick buildings dating from the Dutch colo-
nial period. Look for stone and wood carvings
from the 19th century. The Rangki has been
returned to its glory and is surrounded by fish
ponds. Look for the stern portrait of the late
h
Getting There & Away
Candidasa is on the main road between Am-
