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Balandra is expertly-built, with slick wooden beams connecting chic cabins, a white
stucco facade and private patios that face the lush gardens. One gets the feeling of being
in their own luxury beach house rather than a hotel, and the feeling of seclusion is refresh-
ing in the hype of Manta. The oceanfront restaurant is reason alone to go.
Canoa
About 3 hours south of Esmeraldas and just one north of Manta, Canoa is that kind of
backpacking paradise that only gets around by word of mouth, and the word has definitely
been spread. Originally, the blissful beachside village offered a peaceful retreat from
cramped Montañita, as it's far from Quito and Guayaquil. However, a new bridge has
been built from neighboring Bahía de Caráquez and the tourist infrastructure is growing,
meaning louder beach parties, more trash on the shore and bigger crowds. In spite of all
this, Canoa still remains an easygoing escape on the Pacific Coast, it's just that now, the
secret's out.
Canoa's shore is small and characterized by azure waters that crash in head-high waves on
the shore in the shadow of tall cliffs and caves to the north. The beach is flanked by epic
palm trees that sway with the gentle breeze that consistently streams through town, mak-
ing the climate (always in the late 70s) ideal. At night, colorful tents and thatched huts on
the shore open up shop, selling tropical cocktails to travelers in hammocks. It's difficult to
not like Canoa.
Like its sister villages Puerto Lopez and Mompiche, Canoa is big with surfers. Many surf
competitions take place in the high season (November to April) with the most occurring in
November. If you want to avoid the party, make sure to plan your trip in the off-season or
during the weekdays. It may be a difficult to find accommodation if you show up unex-
pected on a Saturday, not to mention get any sleep what with the noise.
There's other fun activities to do in town if you're not up for surfing. Bodyboards can be
rented, Spanish school can be attended, surf classes are given and paragliding is up-and-
coming. For the latter, check out the licensed guides at Fly Canoa that operate out of Surf
Shak, along with Canoa Thrills (who promise 'amazing hangovers'...? Beachcombing can
manifest some beautiful souvenirs, but watch out for the trash that washes ashore from
other coasts. The folks at Hotel Bambú reward a free cocktail to anyone who fills up a
trash bag with litter from the beach, even if you're not a guest there. Though 'environ-
mental cleanup' probably isn't on your travel itinerary, I did mention there are free drinks
involved, so you can't really go wrong here. You're welcome.
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