Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
to leave, as the small community of expats there can attest to. At the break of dawn, fish-
ermen are hauling in the morning's catch while circles of vultures and packs of dogs en-
circle them in a crazy dance. By 9am the town is back to sleep, rocked by the cool waves
of the Pacific meeting Puerto López' sun kissed shores.
As Puerto López marks the very midpoint on Ecuador's western coast, some guidebooks
place it in their Northern Coast sections, and some in the South. Though the country's
convex coastline technically hems it in the South, it can really go either way. Located 3 to
5 hours northwest of Guayaquil (times depend on which route you take: Ruta del Sol is
more scenic, but the Jipijapa route is faster) in the lively Manabí province, renowned for
its manufacture of artisanal cheeses and Montecristi - or 'Panama' - hats. Inhabitants de-
light in an eternal summertime climate with light afternoon rains from January to June and
temperatures ranging from the late 70s to late 80s, but the heat is anything but oppressive.
Ocean waters are just right for swimming and a delicious breeze sweeps through town all
night.
Though the village is relatively sleepy, the ecotourism trade supports half of the local eco-
nomy and as Puerto López is a great base for a number of nearby excursions, the main
drag is filled with tour providers trying their luck. Get ready for men yelling attractions
out at you one after another as soon as you hop off the bus: “Whales! Diving! Bars! Silver
Island! Hostels!” And there really are a surprising amount of things to do, but just make
sure you hire a trustworthy guide. If you're looking for a boat tour but don't want to pay
anything over $15, expect to sink halfway through the trip and have to barrel buckets of
water from out of your boat - fast (true story.) Licensed guides have the documents to
prove it and always hand you a receipt at the end of your transaction. If you're planning a
boat trip, ask to see it beforehand!
Having said that, there's plenty to do
safely
in Puerto López. The town is located just -
from Machalilla National Park, Ecuador's only coastal reserve of its kind. It's mostly
dominated by a desert-like climate, with bony mangroves blooming out of the craggy
earth, and populated with many species generously shared by the Galápagos. Machalilla's
coastline is home to the only coral formation found around Ecuador as well as the pristine
waters of
Los Fraíles
beach, an exclusive half-moon bay filled with emerald green waters
where multicolor schools of fish swim. If you don't go with a guide, the local bus can take
you there, just make sure to ask about the park fee ahead of time as it tends to change.
From late June to early September, two other Puerto López attractions can be combined
into one epic adventure: Sailing to
Silver Island
and watching humpback whales dive
about on the way. If you find yourself visiting on the off-season but someone tries to sell
you a whale-watching tour anyway, ignore them! But if you're lucky, this is one trip that's
well worth its price tag and shouldn't be missed. It's best to go with a guide that special-
