Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the Gateway to the City, a medieval-style wall modeled after the city's Coat of Arms com-
plete with turrets and a clock tower. It introduces out-of-towners to the drama of Loja but
once passed, the walls reveal a tranquil town that's misty in the mornings and wafting
with the heavy aroma of coffee in the air. Bordered by cafe after cafe and even a few
roasters, Loja's lively
Parque Central
serves as the city's ambient hub where it seems
each and every local gathers to start the day and rejoins at night to listen to music. Many
notable poets, novelists and musicians - legendary for their contributions to the national
arts scene - call Loja home.
In 1944 the president of Ecuador issued an executive order to establish the
Casa de la
Cultura,
or the Ecuadorian House of Culture with the intent to create and strengthen the
scientific, economic, legal and artistic sensibilities of the Ecuadorian community. He ap-
pointed the Lojano diplomat Benjamin Carrion to carry out his mission and Carrion flour-
ished as a journalist, essayist and leftist magazine publisher in effect. He accepted that
Ecuador could not contend as a major military or economic figure on the international
stage and used this as an opportunity to transform the country into a cultural and intellec-
tual force instead, albeit at its grassroots. Generations later, he's heralded as a visionary
thinker whose organization continues to thrive, managing several museums in Ecuador as
well as a free theater and film center in Quito.
The list of notable Lojana artists swells to about 30 and includes Miguel Riofrio who
wrote the first Ecuadorian novel of all time. Proof of Loja's cultural importance is proudly
displayed all over the city, from museums and giant frescoes to free weekly concerts in
Plaza de Independencia,
courtesy of the local police band. The
Museum of Music
(Val-
diviezo and Rocafuerte) has permanent exhibits on famous Lojana musicians from the
renaissance and avant-garde eras as well as a temporary exhibition space, concert hall and
music shop.
The Central Bank Museum
(10 de Agosto between Bernardo Valdiviezo
and Bolívar) has everything you'll ever want to know about Loja as far as its archaeolo-
gical, indigenous, colonial and cultural histories goes. The
Gateway to the City
itself
houses four contemporary art galleries that exhibit local talents along with a cafeteria and
gift shop. Climb the clock tower for the best views Loja has to offer.
Though the city's offerings to national culture have been innumerable, two of its most vis-
ited attractions have little to do with art. The
Reinaldo Espinosa Botanical Garden
(2.5
mi/4 km south of Loja across from University Park) was the first in the country and re-
mains one of the world's highest in altitude. It claims about 17 acres (7 ha) where scient-
ists conduct research on over 900 plant species and educate visitors on the environment.
The bonsai collection is impressive but the most interesting display is the Andean plant
and fruit garden where the native
quinoa
plant can be seen in all its varieties. Second only
