Neighbourhoods at a Glance - Prague and Czech Republic - page 275

Agatha holding her severed breasts - one of the more gruesome images in Catholic
hagiography.

Across the road at No 7 is the art-nouveau facade (by Osvald Polívka) of the Viola
Building (Národní třída 7) , former home of the Prague Insurance Co, with the huge
letters 'PRAHA' entwined around five circular windows, and mosaics spelling out
život , kapitál , důchod , věno and pojišťuje (life, capital, income, dowry and insur-
ance). The building next door, a former publishing house, is also a Polívka design.

On the southern side at No 4, looking like it has been built out of old TV screens, is
the Nová Scéna (1983), the 'New National Theatre' building, now home of Laterna
Magika ( CLICK HERE ).

Finally, facing the Vltava near Smetanovo nábřeží is the magnificent National
Theatre (Národní divadlo). Across from the theatre is the Kavárna Slavia , known
for its art-deco interior and river views, and once the place to be seen or to grab an
after-theatre meal. Now renovated, it's once again the place to be seen - though
mainly by other tourists.

NATIONAL THEATRE
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(Národní divadlo; www.narodni-divadlo.cz ; Ostrovní 1, main entrance on Národní třída;
6, 9, 18, 21, 22) The National Theatre is the neo-Renaissance architectural flagship of
the Czech National Revival, and one of Prague's most impressive buildings. Funded
entirely by private donations and decorated inside and out by a roll-call of prominent
Czech artists, architect Josef Zítek's masterpiece burned down within weeks of its
1881 opening but, incredibly, was funded again and restored in less than two years.

THE THEATRE TRE

CHUR CHURCCH

CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF THE SNOWS
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(Kostel Panny Marie Sněžné; www.pms.ofm.cz ; Jungmannovo náměstí 18; Můstek) This
Gothic church at the northern end of Wenceslas Square was begun in the 14th century
by Charles IV, but only the chancel was ever completed, which accounts for its pro-
portions - seemingly taller than it is long. Charles had intended it to be the grandest
church in Prague; the nave is higher than that of St Vitus Cathedral, and the altar is
the city's tallest.

It was a Hussite stronghold, ringing with the sermons of Jan Želivský, who led the
1419 defenestration that touched off the Hussite Wars. The church is approached
through an arch in the Austrian Cultural Institute on Jungmannovo náměstí, but you
can get a good view of the exterior from the neighbouring Franciscan Garden