Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
iar linear patterns favoured from the colonial era onwards - featuring geometric designs and
zoomorphic figures.
Calle Jaén
Three blocks northwest of Plaza Murillo lies the enchanting
Calle Jaén
, the best-preserved
colonial street in La Paz and home to no fewer than five
municipal museums
. A narrow
cobbled street lined with whitewashed houses adorned with elegant wooden balconies, red-
tiled roofs and carved stone doorways opening onto quiet courtyards, calle Jaén could almost
be in a small town in Andalucia or Extremadura, so strong is the Spanish feel.
Museo Costumbrista Juan de Vargas
At the top of Jaén; the entrance is around the corner on Sucre • Tues-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm & 3-7pm, Sat &
Sun 9am-1pm • Except for the
Museo de Instrumentos Musicales de Bolivia
all the municipal museums are
accessed on a single ticket, only sold at the Museo, Costumbrista Juan de Vargas; Bs4 • 02 2280758
Set inside a renovated colonial mansion,
Museo Costumbrista Juan de Vargas
gives a good
introduction to the folkloric customs of the Altiplano, in particular the traditional dances and
processions that form a central part of the region's religious fiestas. Though it can't match
the collection in the
Museo de Etnografía y Folklore
,
the small cluster of
elaborate cos-
tumes
and
grotesque masks
is well worth a look, particularly the monstrous Danzante mask,
whose wearer used to be expected to dance until he literally dropped dead, thereby ensuring
a drought- and disease-free year for his community.
There is also a series of richly detailed
ceramic dioramas
of historical scenes, ranging from
the founding of La Paz and the city's
tambos
to a poignant depiction of trains departing for
the Chaco war. On the ground floor, meanwhile, there are diverting histories of both Bolivi-
an radio and journalism - with assorted gramophones, radiograms, Voice of America mi-
crophones and even some dusty BBC Latin American Service vinyl - and the iconic
Chola
