Basics - The Rough Guide to Bolivia - page 65

Road blockades are also a feature of Bolivian political life, particularly in the Altiplano,
where radical Aymara peasants often block the roads between La Paz and Peru. Generally,
this is an inconvenience that travellers have to put up with, and you should follow events in
the media if you're worried you may get cut off. If you get caught up in the blockades, keep
your head down and get out of the area, and don't try running the blockades unless you really
have to. Tempers can run high, with blockade-breaking buses sometimes getting stoned or
torched.
The Chapare
The election of the coca-growers leader, Evo Morales, as president in 2006 did much to de-
fuse the sometimes violent confrontation between the security forces and peasants in the
Chapare in Cochabamba department, Bolivia's main cocaine-producing region. But away
from the towns on the main road from Cochabamba to Santa Cruz this is still a dangerous
area. Be wary of going off the beaten track in this region, as you may be mistaken for a drug
trafficker or undercover drug-enforcement agent.
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CULTURE AND ETIQUETTE
Particularly in the highlands, Bolivia is quite a formal country, and old-fashioned values
of politeness and courtesy are still widespread. It's normal to greet everyone you talk to
with a formal “good morning/afternoon/evening” (“ buenos dias, buenas tardes/noches ”)
before starting conversation; indeed, failure to do so can be taken as rude. In smal-
ler towns and villages, you'll find even strangers exchange greetings as they pass on
the street. “Please” (“ por favor” ) and “thank you” (“ gracias ”) are also very important.
Bolivians in positions of authority expect to be treated with due respect, and can make
things difficult for you if you fail to show it. Generally, it's best to call people señor or
señora , especially if they are older than you, and to use a formal title such as doctor or
mayor when addressing someone who has one (or affects to, as many Bolivians do).
Many Bolivians are generous, but apt to take offence if you don't accept what they have
offeredyou,particularly whenitcomestofoodanddrink.Asfor alcohol ,escapingadrinking
session after just one or two is difficult to achieve - it can be better to just slip away rather
than announce that you've had enough.
Race is a very sensitive issue in Bolivia, both politically and on a day-to-day basis. Indi-
genous people should never be referred to as Indios (Indians) as this is considered racist and
deeply offensive. Indigena is much better, but most refer to themselves by their specific eth-
nic or linguistic group - Aymara, Quechua, etc. Religion - both Christian and indigenous -
is also a serious matter, and you should always ask permission before intruding on ceremon-
ies, and act with due respect and sensitivity inside churches and at fiestas or ritual events.