Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
TRAVELLING DOWN THE RÍO MAMORÉ
From Puertos Barador or Almacén, some 15km southwest of Trinidad (a motorbike taxi
will take you for around Bs20), you can get a ride on the regular cargo boats that ply the
waters of the
Río Mamoré
, either downstream to
Guayaramerín
on the Brazilian border
mighty Mamoré - its name means “Great Mother” in Moxeño - was once one of the great
waterways of the Bolivian Amazon and still sees a good deal of traffic. Canoes, barges and
double-decker river boats ply its silt-laden waters, carrying supplies to the isolated com-
munities along the river bank, collecting cargoes of timber or bananas, and carrying cattle
downstream to markets in Brazil.
Travelling this way is one of the classic Amazon experiences, and an excellent way to get
a feel for the immense scale of the forest and the lifestyle of its inhabitants. The river boats
glide through the forest at a languid pace, with plenty of opportunities for spotting
wildlife
along the way, particularly cayman, pink river dolphins and innumerable birds. Every so
often the dense vegetation of the river bank breaks to reveal a riverside settlement, usually
no more than a cluster of thatched houses on stilts. For the villagers, isolated in the midst
of this immense wilderness, the arrival of a boat can be the main event of the day, and if
yours stops to load or unload cargo it's likely to be besieged by locals selling bananas or
fish, or simply seeking the latest news and gossip from upriver.
PRACTICALITIES
Boats depart up- and down-river two or three times a week, though when river levels fall
in the
dry season
(May-Sept) the route south to Puerto Villarroel can be impassable. The
trip downstream to Guayaramerín takes between three days and a week, depending on the
level of the river, the size and power of the boat, whether it's equipped to travel by night,
and how many stops it makes to load and unload cargo; upstream to Puerto Villarroel takes
five to seven days. The trip downstream should cost around Bs175-280 ($25-40) includ-
ing meals, but be prepared to bargain; the longer trip upstream will likely cost slightly
more. The
food
served on board the boats is usually pretty bland, consisting mainly of rice,
plantains and
charque
, so it's worth taking along fresh fruit and maybe some tinned food.
It's also essential to take your own drinking
water
or at least some purifiers.
Accommod-
ation
on board is fairly basic; you'll need your own hammock to string up on deck as well
as a mosquito net if the boat is likely to moor at night.
To check departure dates and arrange passage, you really have to take a
motorcycle taxi
to either port and speak directly with the boat captains. You may have to wait around a few
days before getting a ride; some captains will let you sleep on board while awaiting depar-
ture.
