Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
fields, La Higuera is a tiny collection of simple adobe houses with tiled roofs. A handful of
monuments
commemorate the fallen guerrilla leader. The most recent is a large, well-made
bronze bust of Che, erected in 1997 on the thirtieth anniversary of his death. The other is a
small, roughly fashioned plaster bust that was destroyed three times by the Bolivian army
over the years, and replaced each time by local sympathizers. The schoolhouse where Che
was executed has been turned into a small museum. Many of Che's admirers visit, but unless
you share their veneration of the charismatic revolutionary icon, there's little reason to come
here.
If you ask around you'll probably find someone willing to guide you to the
Quebrada del
Churo
, the ravine a few kilometres away where Che was captured. It is a beautiful, and
poignant, two-hour hike. You may have to pay a small (Bs5-10) fee to pass through private
land en route.
Museo Comunal La Higuera
No fixed opening times; if you ask around, you can normally find someone with a key • Bs10
This one-room
museum
, in the schoolroom in which Che was killed, has the atmosphere of a
shrine. It features relics like Che's machete; the wooden chair where he sat for the last time;
bullets, ammo clips and a rifle used by the other guerrillas or their military pursuers. There's
also a map of the campaign; plenty of photos and newspaper cuttings; and lots of leaflets and
pamphlets donated by Che sympathizers. A local guide is always available at the museum
and will know a great deal about the failed guerrilla campaign. On October 8-9 each year
there's a small gathering of revolutionaries and other sympathizers who come to commemor-
ate Che's death.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: LA HIGUERA
By taxi
A taxi from Vallegrande to La Higuera costs around Bs245 return; one from Sa-
maipata costs from around Bs805 ($115) return. Most people, however, opt for a tour run by
one of Samaipata's
travel agencies
.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
There are a couple of accommodation options in La Higuera. Those listed here can also both
provide meals. There's also a small
shop
selling basic provisions, though if you're self-cater-
ing its best to pick up supplies in
Pucará
en route.
La Casa del Telegrafista
No phone,
www.lacasadeltelegrafista.com
. In an old telegraph
building that was used by Che's comrades, this French-run lodge has very atmospheric,
stone-walled rooms with high ceilings (but no electricity) and shared bathrooms set around
a patio filled with cacti and plants, and strung with hammocks and gaslights; the
Casa
also
provides excellent salads, sandwiches, omelettes and mai
n me
als (Bs15-35), as well as tasty
plates of locally produced cheese and home-baked bread.
Bs40
