Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
protective measures were established (they should grow back in a few centuries), but a visit
to the cave is still very enjoyable, unless you're claustrophobic - trips involve clambering
and crawling for a couple of hours through some very tight places up to 800m underground.
Take a torch and drinking water and expect to get dirty. For serious cavers and speleologists
there are a number of other caves in the area to explore - talk to staff at the park office.
Llama Chaqui
About 16km east of Torotoro stands
Llama Chaqui
, a ruined pre-Inca fortress that energetic
hikers can visit (with a guide) in a long day-trip from the village. The walk to the ruins takes
you over the mountains to the east of the Río Torotoro, with spectacular views across the
deep valley of the Río Caine and the rugged brown mountains that march away to Cerro Tun-
ari, the peak that rises above Cochabamba. The scenery is very beautiful, with steep rocky
slopes and narrow hanging valleys patchworked with maize and barley fields set around the
occasional isolated hamlet.
Set on a knife-edge ridge high above the
Río Caine
, Llama Chaqui itself is an excellent ob-
servation point and natural fortress, though other than the walled enclosure (still sometimes
used as a cattle pen) little remains of the ancient settlement and the entire complex is heavily
overgrown. Even so, you can still make out the foundations of individual houses, and the
ground is scattered with pottery fragments and rough-cut stones.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: PARQUE NACIONAL TOROTORO
By bus
Buses to Torotoro leave Cochabamba from the corner of Av 6 de Agosto and Av Re-
publica at 5.45-6am (Wed, Thurs, Sat & Sun), and return from Torotoro at 6am (Mon, Tues,
Fri and Sun). The bus ride lasts about seven hours in the dry season (May-Sept), a rough and
dusty trip along unpaved roads and dry riverbeds - in the rainy season (Nov-March) it takes
much longer and the route can sometimes become impassable.
INFORMATION
Tourist information
On arrival, head to the tourist office on the main street of the village
(officially daily 8am-noon & 2-5pm), where you'll need to pay the Bs20 park admission fee.
The office has basic information about the park and can find you a local guide for around
Bs70-100 a day - the village is so small that forming a group with other travellers is rarely a
problem if you want to share the cost.
ACCOMMODATION
Hostal Las Hermanas
04 4135736.
This simple, welcoming lodge is the best of the vil-
lage's low-budget
alojamientos
. The rooms - with either shared or private bathro
oms
- are
clean, basic and fine for a night or two. There's also good homecooking available.
Bs50
Villa Etelvina
7073 7807,
villaetelvina.com
.
Easily the best place to stay in Torotoro,
the well-run Villa Etelvina has comfortable en-suite bungalows sleeping four people, rooms
