Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Cochabamba Valley with its neatly irrigated green fields of maize seems a vision of order and
fertility in contrast to the harsh, arid mountain ranges on either side.
It's not certain quite what purpose Incarakay served, but it seems likely it was some kind
of
imperial administration centre
. The Incas invested great energy in the Cochabamba Val-
ley after they conquered the region in the mid-fifteenth century, bringing in agricultural set-
tlers from other parts of the empire to cultivate the
maize
which fed the Inca armies, and this
would seem a perfect site from which to calculate how much the imperial share of the harvest
should amount to each year. On the return journey it's well worth stopping off in the town
of Sipe Sipe to sample some
chicha
, the fermented maize beer that was sacred to the Incas
and which is still produced and consumed in large quantities in the Cochabamba Valley, It is
served from huge earthenware pots and drunk from gourds. You'll find it on sale in a number
of private houses, marked by a white flag or bunch of flowers raised on a pole outside.
Incallajta
Theothermajor Incasite intheCochabamba regionis
Incallajta
,afarmoresubstantial com-
plex about 143km east of the city, which was built as a military outpost to protect the val-
ley from raids by the unconquered Chiriguano tribes of the eastern lowlands. There are good
camping spots at the ruins and water is available, but you'll have to take all the food you need
with you. Incallajta is 15km off the road to Sucre, just south of the point where it joins the
old highland road between Cochabamba and Santa Cruz.
Totora
The road from Cochabamba to Sucre, 366km to the southeast, passes through a scenic region
of rugged mountains and fertile valleys, but unfortunately all public transport between the
two travels overnight, so unless you've got your own transport, you're unlikely to see much.
The road also passes through what was once one of the prettiest colonial villages in Bolivia -
TOTORA
. Sadly, the village was devastated by a powerful earthquake that shook the region
in 1998, but after a lengthy corruption-plagued reconstruction effort it has finally regained
much of its original charm. The entirely, and generally faithfully, rebuilt central plaza offers
a unique opportunity to experience the colonial plaza much the way it would have looked at
the height of Spanish rule.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: AROUND COCHABAMBA
CLIZA, PUNATA AND ARANI
Micros and trufis to Arani (every 15-20min; 45min) and Punata (every 30min; 40min) leave
from the corner of Av Republica and Manuripi in the south of Cochabamba; those for
Cliza
(every 15-20min; 25min) leave from the corner of Av Barrientos and Manuripi.
PARQUE NACIONAL CERRO TUNARI
To reach the most accessible section of the park, immediately above Cochabamba, flag down
trufi #103, which heads along Av Ayacucho to the park gate, about 7km north of the city
