Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SYMPATHY FOR THE DEVIL: EL TÍO
Ineverymine,usuallyinanalcovejustbeyondthepointfromwhichthelastrayofsunlight
can be seen, you'll find a statue of a sinister horned and bearded figure complete with erect
phallus and leering smile. Known as
El Tío
(the Uncle) this demonic character is con-
sidered to be the king of the underworld, to whom sacrifices must be made and homage
paid if miners are to stay safe and find rich deposits. El Tío is given regular
libations
of
alcohol and offerings of coca and lit cigarettes, particularly on Fridays. At certain times of
the year,
blood sacrifices
are also made to El Tío, with llamas being slaughtered outside
the mine entrance to assuage a thirst for blood that might otherwise be satisfied only by
the death of a miner. Though El Tío is clearly related to
pre-Columbian mountain deit-
ies
and is never referred to as the Devil by name, there's little doubt that he owes much to
Christian belief
. When the first
mitayos
heard Spanish priests describe heaven and hell,
they can only have concluded that the mines were hell itself. If that was so, then they were
working in the Devil's domain, and it was to him that they had to look for succour. To this
day most miners are Christians when above ground, taking part in fiestas and worshipping
Christ and the Virgin. But once inside the mines, it is to the owner of the minerals and the
king of the underworld that they pray.
Cordillera Kari Kari
To reach the lakes by foot, walk up to Plaza Sucre along Calle Chuquisaca, then follow the road to the southeast
that turns into a track leading up into the mountains
The
Cordillera Kari Kari
is home to a network of artificial lakes, dams, aqueducts and
dykes that Viceroy Toledo ordered to be built in the late sixteenth century to ensure a supply
of water to the foundries in Potosí. By contemporary standards, the artificial lakes represen-
ted a monumental feat of construction, employing twenty thousand indigenous forced labour-
ers and taking the best part of half a century to complete. During peak silver production there
were 32 lakes, but only a few now survive to supply the city's water. In 1625 the retaining
wall supporting Laguna San Sebastián burst, killing thousands of people.
Set amid arid red-brown mountains, the lakes are easily reached from the city and make a
good place for
hiking
, albeit at altitudes of up to 5000m. If you're planning to stay overnight
you'll need your own food and camping gear, and you'll have to be prepared for sub-zero
the city centre, is
Laguna San Sebastián
, which is supported by a massive retaining wall,
built by hand in the sixteenth century. From here you can head across the ridge to the north-
east to
Laguna San Idelfonso
, about 1.5km away, or continue south along the remains of an
abandoned aqueduct towards lagunas
Pisco Cocha
and
Chalaviri
. Keep sight of Cerro Rico
and you shouldn't have any problems finding your way back to Potosí.