Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Hotel Libertador Millares 58 02 6227877. Smart, modern hotel with central heating and
bright rooms with private baths, flatscreen TVs and phones. Apart from a sun terrace with
good view s of Cerro Rico, though, it could be anywhere in the world. Breakfast included.
Bs350 ($50)
Koala Den Junin 56 02 6226467, koalabolivia.com . Run by the tour agency of the same
name, and located just off a quaint street, this friendly hostel has clean dorms and private
rooms, hot showers, a TV/DVD lounge, book exchange, laun dry se rvice, bi ke rent al and free
internet and wi-fi. It also has a smaller annexe nearby. Dorms Bs35 ; doubles Bs100
Residencial Sumaj F. Gumiel 12, just off Plaza Simón Bolívar 02 6223336. Away from
the centre towards the bus terminal, this Hostelling International-affiliated is a decent choice
for those travelling on a shoestring. It offers dark, boxy rooms with shared bath (and limited
hot w ater) around a central patio; those on the second floor are a bit better. TVs cost Bs10
extra. Bs60
EATING, DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
Potosí has a growing variety of places to eat, with more and more cafés and restaurants of-
fering vegetarian food and travellers' favourites. Don't miss out, however, on the tasty loc-
al cuisine , particularly the thick, warming soups and meat dishes cooked in spicy sauces.
Most restaurants open daily except Sunday from 8-10am to around 10pm; cafés have similar
opening times, though tend to close in the early evenings. The Mercado Central on Calle
Bolívar is the best place to eat if you're on a budget , with coffee, pastries and apí - a hot
thick maize drink flavoured with cloves and cinnamon - served up from early in the morn-
ing. The salteñas and empanadas sold by street vendors throughout the city also make tasty
snacks. Outside the main fiestas, nightlife is fairly tame, though a few restaurants and cafés
double as bars , which tend to come to life on Friday and Saturday nights, and several places
host live folk music performances.
RESTAURANTS
Doña Eugenia Opposite the cemetery just off Chayanta. This inexpensive restaurant on the
outskirts of the city is just about the only place that serves regional speciality kala phurka , a
thick, spicy maize soup served in earthenware bowls into which a hot stone is plunged just
before serving, so it stays piping hot and bubbles like a volcano as you eat it. Mains Bs15-40.
Daily except Wed for breakfast and lunch.
La Manzana Magica Oruro 239. Welcoming vegetarian joint serving hearty breakfasts,
good-value set almuerzos and a variety of salads, omelettes and snacks (all Bs10-25) includ-
ing multiple takes on the veggie burger. Closed Sun evening.
El Meson Corner Tarija and Linares. One of the smartest restaurants in town with a
French-flavoured menu featuring excellent steaks (including a fine chateaubriand), llama and
trout, all served up by black and white-suited waiters. The decor is similarly sophisticated
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