THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Bolivia - page 202

Ventilla to Estancia Takesi
The Takesi Trail starts at Ventilla , a small village set at an altitude of 3200m some 20km east
of La Paz. From Ventilla, turn left off the main road and follow the clearly signposted track
that winds up the valley northeast to the village of Choquequta , ninety minutes away. Here
you can usually hire mules for the ascent to the pass or the entire length of the trek. Follow
the track uphill for another ninety minutes until you reach a crumbling wall with a map of the
route painted on it. Turn off the road to the right along a broad path which winds steeply up-
hill, with fine pre-Columbian paving soon evident along its length. After ninety minutes or so
youreachthehighestpointonthetrail,a4600mpassmarkedbyastone apacheta fromwhere
there are fantastic views of the looming glacial peak of Mururata (5868m) to the east. From
here the trail continues about ninety minutes northeast down a broad valley, through llama
pastures to the herding hamlet of Estancia Takesi , passing an abundance of good camping
spots along the way.
To Kakapi and Chojila
Below Estancia Takesi, the path crosses the Río Takesi onto its right bank, where it winds
along steep slopes high above a thundering gorge. The air gets warmer and more humid by
the minute as the trail drops below 3000m, and the sides of the valley are soon covered in
lush vegetation. After two to three hours you'll reach the village of Kakapi , after which the
path, now heading east, again crosses a river. Continue uphill for half an hour to Chojila , a
small and friendly settlement with a campsite. It's still over three hours from here to Yanaca-
chi, so if you're not in a hurry, it's the perfect place to stay overnight.
Chojila to Yanacachi
From Chojila, descend for 45 minutes until you reach a concrete bridge; cross it and turn to
the right. After a while, you'll reach an aqueduct, which leads straight to a road. Be careful
if you're following the aqueduct in the dark - there are holes in the concrete slabs underfoot.
When you reach the road, follow it around the bend and take the left, uphill fork. Soon, the
road passes an unpleasant sulphur mining settlement known as the Chojlla mining camp .
Unless you get a lift from a passing vehicle, you'll have to follow the road for another two
hours to get to the tranquil village of Yanacachi , just off the La Paz-Chulumani road.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: THE TAKESI TRAIL
By micro Several micros to Ventilla depart from the corner of Luis Lara and Rodriguez in La
Paz(7am-noon;3hr);theyreturnatsimilartimes;alternativelyyoucanwalktothemainroad
in about an hour, and then flag down buses (hourly) travelling in either direction between
Chulumani and La Paz.
By taxi A taxi from La Paz to Yanacachi costs Bs350 ($50).