Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
check the latest security situation before heading off, and always use knowledgeable local
guides.
THE MAPIRI TRAIL
One of two long treks down into the tropical valleys of the Yungas, the
Mapiri Trail
(7-8
days) is a tough descent to the mining town of Mapiri, from where you can continue by
motorizedcanoeandroadtoCoroicoordowntoRurrenabaque.Builtinthenineteenthcen-
tury as a route for bringing quinine up from the Amazon lowlands, the trail runs through
a beautiful and remote region of forest-covered mountains. It is frequently overgrown, so
carry a machete; water is also scarce along much of the route.
THE CAMINO DE ORO
The
Camino de Oro
(Goldminers' Trail; 5-7 days) dates back to pre-Columbian times.
It connects the Altiplano with the alluvial goldfields of the Yungas, and impressive rem-
nants of Inca stonework can still be seen along its length, though the lower stretches pass
through areas badly deforested by mining activity. The trail emerges at the gold-mining
camps along the Río Tipuani, from where transport is available downriver to Guanay.
Brief history
During the colonial era Sorata was an important trade and gold-mining centre with a large
Spanish population. In 1781, at the time of the
Great Rebellion
, it was successfully besieged
by supporters of neo-Inca rebel Tupac Amaru, who dammed rivers above the town and then
released a torrent that swept it away. Sorata later enjoyed considerable prosperity as one of
the main routes into the Yungas from the Altiplano, generating fortunes for the German mer-
chants who dominated the town in the nineteenth century. Sorata was back in the headlines
in 2003, when local solidarity with the El Alto-centred “
gas war
” (see the section
A New
Revolution
) resulted in several deaths. Its popularity was understandably dented, and today
it is still struggling to regain its former appeal. Many businesses (including restaurants) close
on Tuesdays.
Plaza General Enrique Peñaranda
The heart of town is the ample
Plaza General Enrique Peñaranda
, shaded by massive palm
trees and with good views of Mount Illampu. Inside the municipal offices on the west side
of the square is a one-room
museum
(Wed-Mon 8am-noon & 2-5pm; free), with a rather
paltry collection of pre-Columbian pots from nearby burial sites and some ornate old dance
costumes.
Casa Gunther
Northeast corner of Plaza General Enrique Peñaranda
ThemostinterestingbuildinginSorataisthe
Casa Gunther
,amassive,ramblingnineteenth-
centurymansionthatwasoncehometoafamilyofpowerfulGermanrubbermerchants(from
