THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Bolivia - page 169

Hostal Puerta del Sol At the top of the main street, on the left-hand side 7195 5181. The
mustard-coloured Puerta del Sol has plain, clean rooms and f antas tic views from its terrace.
An inclusive breakfast is served in a rustic little dining room. Bs80
Palla Khasa Ecological Hotel 500m before Yumani (if coming from the north) 7321
1585, [e-mail] . In a quiet spot, this lovely hotel has cosy yellow-walled
rooms with rugs and stunning views ; som e also have private bathrooms. There's a good res-
taurant, and rates include breakfast. Bs160
Las Velas Turn right just before the steps down to the dock and follow the signs to the euca-
lyptus woods. Run by a former chef at a top Bolivian resort, Las Velas has a similar menu to
the other restaurants in Yumani, but significantly higher standards: try the vegetable pizza or
trout in wine sauce. Mains around Bs50.
Isla de la Luna
About 8km west of Isla del Sol, the far smaller ISLA DE LA LUNA (Island of the Moon)
was another important religious site. Made up of a single ridge 3km long and just over 1km
across at its widest point, the island has limited agricultural land and is home to a small com-
munity.Formuchofthetwentieth centurytheislandwasusedasapolitical prison-theIncas,
however, saw it as a site of great spiritual importance. Known as Coati (“Queen Island”), it
was associated with the moon, considered the female counterpart of the sun, and a powerful
deity in her own right. Many pilgrims would continue here after their visit to the Santuario
on Isla del Sol.
Iñak Uyu
Daily 9am-5.30pm • Bs10
Isla de la Luna's main site - and one of Bolivia's best-preserved Inca complexes - is a temple
on the east coast known as Iñak Uyu . The “Court of Women” was probably a temple dedic-
ated to the moon and staffed entirely by women; it takes about an hour to reach by boat from
Yumani on Isla del Sol. From the beach a series of broad Inca agricultural terraces lead up
to the temple complex, stone buildings facing inwards from three sides onto a broad central
plaza. The facades of the buildings contain eleven massive external niches over 4m high and
1.5m deep, still covered in mud stucco, and decorated with smaller niches with a stepped dia-
mond motif more characteristic of the Tiwanaku Inca architectural style - the Inca builders
may have incorporated this design to please local sensibilities. Colonial-era materials includ-
ing finely made textiles have been found buried here, suggesting that ritual offerings were
still being made long after the fall of the Incas.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: ISLA DE LA LUNA
TourboatsfromCopacabanatoIsladelSolsometimescallatIsladelaLunaifthere'senough
demand. Otherwise, you can charter a private boat from Copacabana, Yampupata or Yumani
on Isla del Sol (around Bs210).