THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Bolivia - page 158

and ther e's a renow ned restaurant, luxurious terrace and small museum. Suite BS995 ($142) ;
doubles BS 630 ($90)
Hotel Utama Michel Pérez and San Antonio 02 28622013, utamaco-
[e-mail] . Fairly unpromising in both its brick exterior and barn-like interi-
or, this is nevertheless a friendly enough place, as the international flag-filled lobby testi-
fies. Rooms come with chintzy bedspreads a nd m urals, armchairs and - from the top corner
rooms, 208 especially - fantastic lake views. Bs80
EATING AND DRINKING
There's no shortage of restaurants in Copacabana, most of them catering to pilgrims . Con-
centrated on Avenida 6 de Agosto and Jáuregui, all offer unexciting set almuerzos and cenas,
orbigplatesofthedelicious Titicaca trout ( trucha ).Youcanfindmorevariedandexpensive
fare at the smarter restaurants aimed at tourists; some also double as bars. Most restaurants
open daily from morning to evening, though some close early on Sundays ; exceptions are
noted in the reviews themselves. The market just off Plaza 2 de Febrero on Calle La Paz is a
good place for cheap meals, and there are also numerous simple foodstalls on the waterfront
serving fresh trout.
El Condor and the Eagle Café Av 6 de Agosto, just off Plaza Sucre. A sophisticated café
serving excellent organic coffee, teas and hot chocolate (all Bs9-20), home-made dishes like
baked beans on soda bread (Bs15), and cakes and muffins. There are books for sale, water
bottle refills (Bs2/litre) and a useful compendium of travellers' tips to flick through. The only
downside is the somewhat trying list of rules and regulations (which include orders not to
talk too loudly).
La Cúpula Inside hotel of the same name 02 8622029. This luminous domed dining
room overlooking the lake has probably the best food in town, with good breakfasts, creative
main courses (including numerous vegetarian options, and superlative trucha ), and tempting
desserts. The highlights, however, are the decadent fondues. Mains Bs28-49, fondues
Bs80-110. Closed Tues lunchtime.
Kota Kahuaña Inside Hotel Rosario del Lago 02 8622141. Huge windows with superb
views are the backdrop for some of Copacabana's most adventurous cuisine. Highlights in-
clude trout with garlic, white wine and orange; llama with quinoa and bacon; and seafood
paella. On weekends, when the weather's fine, there's a lunchtime barbecue on the terrace.
Mains Bs30-90.
Mankha Uta Av 6 de Agosto, near the beach. Friendly, glass-fronted bar-restaurant with an
emphasis on live music. The four set meals (including one for vegetarians; Bs23-28) are
good value, though service is glacially slow. It also sells packed lunches, and has a small
book exchange, a collection of DVDs to watch and board games to play.