Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Plaza 2 de Febrero
Outside the cathedral,
Plaza 2 de Febrero
is often occupied by cars, buses and trucks dec-
orated with colourful streamers and rosettes. These are blessed with holy water by a priest
and doused liberally in beer and liquor in frequent rituals (generally daily around 10am and
2pm) known as
ch'alla
, which aim to ensure their future safety. At fiesta times, pilgrims
bring models of desirable objects to be blessed, in the belief that doing so ensures that the
real thing will be theirs within a year - a modern version of traditional requests for sufficient
rain, bountiful harvests or successful fishing.
Cerro Calvario
A 30min walk along a trail that begins beside the church at the north end of Calle Bolívar
Cerro Calvario
, the hill rising steeply above the north of town, is another interesting reli-
gious site. The summit is marked by a cross from where there are splendid views. It's popular
with pilgrims throughout the year, but particularly during Easter, when thousands accompany
the Virgen de Copacabana as she is carried up here in a candlelit procession. As well as the
formal Christian crosses at the top of the hill, the summit is dotted with ramshackle stone al-
tars where pilgrims light candles, burn offerings and pour alcoholic libations to ensure their
prayers are heard.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: COPACABANA
By bus
Public buses and micros to and from La Paz (roughly every half hour; 3hr 30min)
depart and arrive from Plaza Sucre. The tourist buses plying this route, however, are more
comfortable and only a little more expensive; most tour agencies sell tickets. Although there
is talk of starting up a direct service to Sorata, at the time of writing the only way to reach the
town without travelling via La Paz was to take a La Paz-bound bus as far as Huarina, where
you can flag down a micro (3hr; every 30min).
CROSSING THE PERUVIAN BORDER
VIA KASANI
MicrostotheborderatKasani(every30minorso;15min)leavefromPlazaSucre.AtKasani,
get your exit stamp at passport control (8.30am-7.30pm) and then walk across the border. On
the Peruvian side, micros and taxis wait to take passengers to the town of Yunguyo (10min),
fromwhereregularbusesheadtoPunoandontoCuscoandArequipa;therearealsoplacesto
stay if you arrive too late to move on. Alternatively, catch one of the daily tourist buses from
La Paz to Puno via Copacabana; tickets are available from travel agencies in Copacabana.
VIA DESAGUADERO
You can also cross into Peru at Desaguadero, on Lago Titicaca's southern side. This scenic
route is served by micros (every 30min; 3hr) from La Paz; they leave from Calle Eyzaguirre
between Calle Aliaga and Calle Asin in the cemetery district. Get your exit stamp at the fron-
tier from passport control (8.30am-8.30pm), then walk across the bridge and get an entry
