THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Bolivia - page 128

ceiling, a futuristic log brazier burning away in the centre (it tends to reek, however, so
unless you're feeling the chill, try and sit elsewhere) and - delightfully incongruously - a
drinks menu peppered with wry quotes from the likes of W.C. Fields and Compton McKen-
zie. Mon-Thurs 7pm-midnight, Fri & Sat till 2am.
Etno Jaén 722 02 2280343; map . The most self-consciously bohemian café-bar in town,
tending towards the gothic, with spooky abstract photography and “Lady Bathory” and “Nos-
feratu” absinthe cocktails. Surprisingly enough, they also whip up arguably the city's best
café con leche ; be sure to taste their Amazonian whisky too. A nightly cultural programme
keeps the art school clientele busy, with a little stage through the back where it all happens.
Mon-Thurs 11am-3am, Fri & Sat 4pm-3am.
La Luna Oruro and Murillo; map . Atmospheric, torn and frayed late-night drinking cave
whereyou'realmostalwaysguaranteedgreatmusic(vintageLatinjazz,Seventiesrock,blues
etc), a comfy seat and a friendly welcome. A real tonic if you're suffering from cheesy Latin
pop overkill and your backside's aching from too many functionally useless designer chairs.
Daily 7pm till late.
Malegria Pasaje Medinacelli 2282 02 2423700; map . Tribal-themed nightclub with ethnic
masks, stone walls and a middling music policy that runs between ska, Mexican and Argen-
tinian rock, and the usual generic stuff. The real reason to come here is the live Thurs night
Afro-Bolivian music, a veritable orgy of rhythm and colour. Thurs-Sat 10pm-3.30am.
Mongo's Rock-Bottom Café Hermanos Manchego 2444 02 2440714; map . The grand-
daddy of La Paz's gringo hangouts, though there seem to be more locals than gringos here
these days. A shame, as it's still a great place for an atmospheric early to mid-evening drink
when the open fireplace is roaring (the logs smell heavenly), the candles haven't burned out
and the DJ hasn't turned upthe volume to ear-splitting level. Live Cuban music and free salsa
lessons every Tues, and lunchtime opening planned for the near future. Daily 6pm-3.30am.
Oliver's Travels Corner of Murillo and Tarija 02 2311574, 4cornerslapaz.com ; map .
“Do you like cocaine?”; “Do you shy away from strangers?”; “Do you have a face like a
bulldog chewing a wasp?”; this bar's cheeky job ads (these are the qualities that won't get
you a job, by the way) exemplify its un-PC sense of humour, which also runs through the
Scotsman, Englishmen, Irishman, Frenchman, etc jokes in the small print of their menu. Not
to everyone's tastes, certainly, but if this sounds up your street, you'll doubtless have a grand
old time, with honest to goodness pint glasses of beer (Saya, Paceña etc), superlative ginger
and tomato curries (Bs40), live English Premiership and Champions League football, free
wi-fi and classic British indie sounds. Daily 8am till late (or “until we get bored”).
Sol y Luna Cochabamba with Murillo 02 2115328, solyluna-lapaz.com ; map . Dutch-
owned institution serving strong coffee and cold beer in a mellow, stone-walled, candlelit at-
mosphere, with huge windows perfect for watching La Paz's night-time street life hustle by.