Travel Reference
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Their coca tea crams in more leaves than water and even the hardback menus are tastefully
designed. Daily 7am-10pm.
Café Blueberries Av 20 de Octubre 2475, northeast side of Plaza Avaroa 02 2433402;
map . Inacitywherethecoffeechainisking,thisisahumbletea-drinker'shaven,withanam-
bience as unhurried as the Miles Davis solos floating from its speakers. You can sip from ex-
quisite pots of Ceylon, Darjeeling and Assam, and don't miss their sweetly astringent ginger
brew. The pancakes are delicious, made with nutritious Andean blueberries, and their rich
house yoghurt unlike anything you'll have tasted. There's also a garden backdrop and live
jazz every Sat. Mon-Sat 8am-11.30pm, Sun 11am-9pm.
Cafe Ciudad Plaza del Estudiante 02 2441827; map . Lively and long-established café
that, incredibly for Bolivia, still manages to open 24hr a day, 365 days of the year. If you're
staying in Sopocachi, it's great for a late-afternoon pit-stop when everywhere else is closed,
andeventhoughthecoffeeandfoodingeneralisn'tamazing,theirpeerlesslyfluffyomelettes
(Bs20) are arguably the best in the city. There's also an upstairs terrace, annoyingly enough
with only one table. Daily 24hr.
Cafe Illampu Linares 940 02 2971543; map . Finally a La Paz branch of friendly Ste-
fan's Sorata institution , housed in one of the most elegant dining rooms on the whole of Lin-
ares. Once upon a time the comedor of the Linares family themselves, it's an edifying space
- complete with original ceiling murals and chandeliers - to enjoy what Stefan describes as
“the best breakfast in South America”. He may just be right, what with his famous home-
made white and wholemeal bread and jam, and organic yoghurt and eggs all the way from
Sorata. His muesli is unarguably Swiss and the man himself couldn't be a more affable host.
Mon-Sat 7.30am- 8pm.
Café La Paz Av Camacho 1202, just beyond the corner with the Prado 02 2312266; map .
Though this august café isn't quite as atmospheric as it once was, the coffee is usually excel-
lent, and the breakfasts cheaper than some of the nearby chains. The place is still pretty much
a preserve of elderly gents, though, not least when there's a Barcelona vs Real Madrid match
on the big screen. Daily 8am-midnight.
La Casita del Pannekuk Av Sanchez Lima 2235, Sopocachi 02 2910660; map . La Paz, in
general, doesn't really do homely, but “The Little House of Pancakes” is a textbook excep-
tion, shamelessly milking the Dutch theme with windmills, monochrome photos of Amster-
dam and the requisite blue and white ceramics. Its motherly dueña , moreover, will make sure
you're eating enough - not difficult when the honey-lathered, fruit-topped pancakes (3 for
Bs15), crêpes and waffles are so delicious. Great French music as well. Mon-Fri 9am-noon
& 5-9.30pm, Sat 5-9.30pm.
K'umara Tarija 263; map . Another new Bolivian-owned start-up, this psychedelically-hued
hutch-like hole-in-the-wall is perfect for a light, healthy breakfast. Mix and match your cer-
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