Western Mongolia - Mongolia - page 479

conquered. It is even said that the Mongols never lived in their own capital,
Karakorum. Instead they parked their gers on the grasslands outside the city walls,
used to the freedom they provided. The city itself was inhabited by foreign artisans,
traders, labourers and priests, accustomed to the stone houses and to life within
the city walls.
Inside a Ger
The internal layout of the ger is universal throughout Mongolia. Anywhere from Khovd
to Dornod you will see the same set up and go through the same motions. The door al-
ways faces south, primarily because the wind comes from the north and a south-facing
door will catch the most sunlight. Visitors should not step on the threshold as they enter,
as this is symbolic of stepping on the neck of the ger patriarch.
Once inside, men move to the left (to the west, under the protection of the great sky
god, Tengger), women to the right (east, under the protection of the sun). Towards the
back, and a little to the west, is the place of honour set aside for guests. After two or
three ger visits, this routine becomes like clockwork and you'll be amazed how everyone
in your group easily falls into the same place during each ger visit.
The back of the ger is the khoimor , the place for the elders, where the most honoured
people are seated and treasured possessions are kept. On the back wall is the family altar,
decorated with Buddhist images and family photos (mostly taken during trips to Ulaan-
baatar). Near the door, on the male side are saddles, ropes and a big leather milk bag and
churn, used to stir airag (fermented mare's milk). On the female side of the door are the
cooking implements and water buckets. Around the walls there are two or three low beds
and cabinets. In the centre sits a small table with several tiny chairs. Hanging in any va-
cant spot, or wedged between the latticed walls, are toothbrushes, clothes, children's toys
and plenty of slabs of uncooked mutton.
Timothy Allen of BBC Earth filmed the set-up of a ger using timelapse photography.
Check out the 80-second clip on YouTube, called 'No Place Like Home' - search
'Timothy Allen BBC Earth'.
Building Your Ger
The small cartwheel-shaped opening at the top, called a toon , allows smoke to exit and
sunlight to enter. It is covered with an örkh, which can be adjusted from the ground using
ropes. The wooden roof poles (uni) are orange (the colour of the sun); the concertina-like
latticed walls are called khan .