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ingly in the middle of nowhere. It has hot showers, flush toilets, a restaurant (breakfast/
lunch/dinner US$9/14/10) and clean, comfortable gers as well as rooms in a small guest-
house building. The rocks between the camp and the lake are fun to clamber over, and
the lake views from the top of them are superb.
The turn-off from the main road towards the camp is signposted, just east of Khar
Temis holiday camp, but it's still quite a long drive from here. The last 15km are very
sandy and it's easy to get stuck, so don't attempt it without a reliable 4WD.
The national park fee applies around the lake, though you'd be lucky (or unlucky) to
find a ranger to pay it to.
ZAVKHAN
POP 79,000 / AREA 82,000 SQ KM
Zavkhan aimag occupies a transitional zone between the well-watered Khangai mountain
range of central Mongolia and the harsh Great Lakes Depression of western Mongolia. In
between the two regions, Zavkhan has its own microclimates and varied terrain that
ranges from snowy peaks to steppe to lakes surrounded by sand dunes.
The aimag is in an awkward location and very few travellers are likely to pass through
much or any of Zavkhan. This is a pity because the scenery is some of the most dramatic
and varied in the country; one minute you are travelling through lush valleys and hills,
and then a few kilometres further you are in a desert reminiscent of Lawrence of Arabia .
TOP OF CHAPTER
Uliastai
01462, 7046 / POP 64,600 / ELEV 1760M
Along with Khovd, Uliastai is one of Mongolia's oldest cities, founded by the Manchus
during their reign in Mongolia. Sadly, the old garrison is long gone, save for some ruins
on the outskirts of town. Rivers flowing nearby and a lush valley surrounded by moun-
tains complete the picture and make it a great place to camp.
Note, if you've travelled from other western aimags, you're back into Ulaanbaatar
time here, one hour ahead of Ölgii.
 
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